Cruising Part 5

Maybe I need a better title for each of these posts. I didn't expect there to be so many! Anyhow, the evening promised an aurora borealis and I was fooled by the rainbow over the bay. False alarm. Seeing the real one meant getting up in the night and while I was all for that, the clouds closed in and we missed this chance. We were up very early to get a good place to view the Hubbard Glacier. Some from the ship went in a much smaller boat to get up very close. As I've been up close to glaciers before, even climbed up one, I preferred to stay on board where it was slightly warmer. About as warm as standing in front of an open freezer door.  

Have I mentioned anywhere yet about my packing gaff? I travel light, carry on light, even for a two week adventure. I had looked at the weather, great it's summer; Vancouver  looks hot, Alaska not too cold; and packed my bikinis in preference to my warm coat. Rookie mistake, at least I did pack my light rain coat and had layers and a warm pashmina so made do. It was just a bit chillier in these parts than I'd imagined, even in summer.  

I waited patiently up top at a window opening to the glacier side of the ship with my big camera and long lens. What a lovely journey up Disenchantment Bay. The mist was low on the hills, mountains peeking out up higher and small ice burgs rocking in the ships wake. The best thing was the crew and their wonderful hot chocolate, topping up mine when needed with a smile. I even had an a salaam alikom from the photographer, assuming the pashmina around my head in lieu of a hat was a hijab. We had a lovely chat, he had some great travel stories, and he offered to take my photo - no thanks the selfie I took will never see the light of day!

It was amazing seeing this massive glacier, seeing the ice right up the valley and the bright spots where it has calved. The results in the water as large blocks of ice. No amount of description here can do this place justice so I'll leave it to the pics. Some are from my phone with a couple from my Canon. We sailed away once the excursion boat was back and headed for our final stop overnight to Seward. 

The sky was once again amazing from the front of the ship, the sun still up until very late and a half light from there. The whales were out to play and we watched them from the warmth with cocktails in hand, the late sun lighting up the bar. 

Hubbard Glacier

The excursion boat heading off

Late night sky

Cruising Part 4

Drinks packages are dangerous. Or rather drinking your drinks package each day is! At least the place with good coffee was included. The evening entertainment was great. The dancers and acrobats and singers working hard to please the large crowds with bar staff bringing drinks when tops ups were needed. The Skyline lounge at the front of the ship was where much of the entertainment happened, well the entertainment involving the crowd. Like the very annoying quiz, that from me who loves a good bit of pub trivia. 

One of our group is a singer. Bonnie is quite amazing, very talented and confident. Certainly better than some of the talent on display and much better than any others at karaoke, not something I took part in because I know for a 100% certainty, and have done my whole life - I can't sing! Just wish others understood that about themselves, although good on them for having a go and some were really good. Like the young man who wooed the crowd and had a serious conversation with the cruise director. 

It was hard on the ship to find a quiet out of the way spot and I tried many. Outside on the deck chairs when it was really cold worked and, if one could be nabbed, in the big yellow winged chairs near the café. Not quiet given it's a café but turning the chair meant an ocean view. Wonderful reading my book while on the look out for wildlife. I saw a couple of Orca from there as well as the usual seals, dolphins and humpbacks. Such a treat. Others wanting the other chair in the pair joined me, also intent on a book and sea watching. 

Skagway was our next stop and the White Pass and Yukon Route by train. Jane is the very best organizer. She chose and booked all the shore excursions and they were the very best. Bears, eagles, whales, rugged countryside, salmon to eat and alive, and trains. I love trains. I've always hankered for a model railway and ride on trains as a preference when needing transport. The White Pass train was an old one, refurbished carriages pulled by an appropriately sized engine. We needed our passports as we were heading back into Canada, a formality as an official came through the carriage and checked. Thankfully it didn't take too long as I needed the loo. Having a wee in Alaska in the morning and the next one in Canada a few hours later. Didn't think that would be a thing lol!

The train wended up the very steep and unforgiving track alongside the Skagway River, a trail used by men to access thee Klondike gold fields back in 1896-7 when gold was found. The treacherous trail of over 500 miles took the lives of many unprepared miners and sadly their pack animals. It's estimated 3000 horses died  on the White Pass trail due to both the tortures of the trail and the inexperience of the stampeders, as the prospectors were called. Horrific stories of hardship, starvation and deprivation all in the pursuit of gold. To read more here's the National Parks Service site. 

The view out the windows was stark and the unforgiving landscape made me wonder at the madness caused by the cry of 'there's gold in them there hills'! I've been told I'm a bit of a risk taker but there's no way I'd brave the terrain, the weather, the bears and the madness of others on such a trek. I guess the hopeless poverty of the day played a part, a chance for a family to break the chains. Interesting thinking about the USA and how it is such a high pressure society with wealth and making wealth deciding factors in people's futures intergenerationally.  

But I digress. Seems to happen when I start a post one day then pick it up the next. Where was I?

I've looked through the pics and although they don't really do the journey justice, some are below. As well as one of the yellow chair, just the perfect spot for coffee and a book. We left Skagway in a misty drizzle watching the helicopters take off showing the tourists the rugged country by air. The next highlight was Disenchantment Bay and the Hubbard Glacier.

Glacial river carving through the land

Into the tunnel we go!

Cruising Part 3

I was reflecting on my trip and realized I missed a piece about connection. At the hotel in Vancouver there was a roof terrace and we decided to end a satisfying day with a few drinks and snacks from the 7Eleven there. Enjoying the late afternoon sun. There were other folks there, two people who turned out to be New Zealanders. Jokingly I asked if they knew Diana when they said they were from Wellington. And yes they did, very well as she was a relative. Such a small world. I ended up having a couple of messages with her on Messenger and we're hoping to connect for a proper chat. Diana was one of my Wellington crew, the crew I had the best time with. There are pics here from our 2014-15 adventures. 

Juneau. We had planned a lighter day here and a wander around town. The first stop was the Mendenhall Glacier. Being from New Zealand it takes a lot of glacier to impress me and I found this one a little underwhelming. It would have been lovely to have gotten closer. The wander along the track was refreshing, chatting with Mesh and enjoying the waterfalls. On the way back to town we had the best treat, a salmon bake - lots of lovely salmon. The salmon was very red and a little overcooked for me so I asked for an under done one for seconds. The lady slaving over the hot fire was delighted someone else liked salmon cooked less and we had a chat as she prepared the best salmon for me. The area around the Gold Creek Salmon Bake was lovely too as we wandered along Gold Creek to the waterfall and toasted marshmallows over the fire. 

Back on the bus feeling very full, we headed to the Red Dog Saloon, an iconic venue in Juneau where duck farts were the order of the day. Duck farts are quite delicious shots layered Kahlua, Baileys and whiskey. The waitress recommended we had a go at the reindeer farts too, similar but with a minty addition. The bar was really busy with lots of historical memorabilia on the walls, hanging from the rafters, on the floor and everywhere with a flat surface. The bear hanging behind us looked fierce, sad to see his pelt stretched out on a wall. Jane booked us a whale watching trip with a local tour operator. I was feeling sleepy so not too enthused, that and I'd seen heaps of whales from my Gold Coast balcony. I was so pleased she booked it as we got to see a very special event, whales bubble net fishing. 

Bubble net fishing is unique to Alaska. It's amazing to watch a pod of humpback whales lay their bubble net then leap up, mouths open, to catch the fish they captured in their net. The seagulls and seals are there for their share, dodging the wide open mouths. I got some amazing pics and I'm in the process of editing these so here's a video with an explanation instead. Much better represents this amazing spectacle. The pod we followed had 18-20 whales as was larger than the whale boat crew had seen in a while. Lovely to see the crew so engaged and enjoying this as much as we were.  

We headed back to the boat big smiles on our faces. I was looking forward to checking my photos on a big screen and regretted not having my iMac at home to process these. The evening promised more entertainment, food and cocktails. It's a tough life this cruising! Next stop Skagway. 

Playing with filters - Humpback fountain

Waterfall watching

Mildenhall Glacier

Our very large and fierce bear companion 

Duck Farts at the Red Dog

Cruising Part 2

After the fine dining the night before the buffet didn't quite do it for me. Being a pescatarian, a vegetarian who eats seafood, the range was a bit limited. Surprising given we were in the land of salmon, large crabs and other seafood delights. I managed quite well in the end, standing in line, chatting with folks and finishing off with the best sorbet. The evening entertainment was great with a cabaret style show followed by drinks at the front of the ship in the Skyline bar. 

Icy Strait Point and a small fishing town called Hoonah was the next stop and again it was heaving with people. We queued for the gondola and went up a small rise. Icy Point's high point was the free internet to make WhatsApp calls, something I couldn't do on the ship. There was also quite good coffee and I enjoyed it on the beach watching out over the water. Hoonah on the other hand was lovely. Hoonah is a largely Tlingit community on Chichagof Island, located in Alaska's panhandle in the southeast region of the state. It is 30 miles west of Juneau, across the Alaskan Inside Passage. Hoonah is a short wander from the commercial busyness of Icy Point and a welcome relief. I wandered there on my own taking pics along the way.

At Icy Point there was great excitement as a humpback breached just offshore and played a while for the audience it attracted. Imagine my joy when another breached near me on my wander to Hoonah, scaring the group of paddlers who had the front row seats. I took lots of pics, not crowded by people, and got to hear the whale song as he leapt about. What a magical spot the canoeists had. I had considered going out with a local guide but decided staying dry and having a wander was a better idea. Bugger! 

I visited some local crafts folks in Hoonah and had a lovely chat about their place and New Zealand and the similarities, right down to some of the art works and media. I explored for a bit chatting with some local fishermen and wandered back to the ship along the coastal path. Apart from the whales and bears, I wanted that iconic shot of a bald eagle flying. I looked up to see one flying towards me and beginning to bank around. The quick shots I took didn't quite work as I'd hoped but I had a second chance as he flew to a nearby tree. I watched him for a while and got some good close shots then off he flew. Bald eagles are really big and my zoom missed his wing tip so the second flight pic wasn't great either. 

Back to the ship and onwards to the next destination. Kiwis are a bit of a tribe when out in the world and the cruise director told us there were 23 of us on board, plus one dancer. Kiwis also know each other from somewhere or are related to/friends of/live in the same town as someones mutual friend. This trip was no exception. I met Wanaka (not his real name) while getting a burger. His wife and Jane went to school together and hadn't seen each other for years. In their party was a former All Blacks coach and NZ hero and his partner a national netball player. The dancer came from Christchurch, my old city, and that was just half the NZ crew. Laughs were had with stories exchanged over cocktails. They loved my bears in the stream video so I shared it. They'd paid a lot for an excursion and hadn't yet seen a bear or eagles. 

We hit the casino at some point, not my thing but I borrowed a fiver off Jane and set about winning around 100USD on the pokies, very helpful to my limited budget. We watched the most amazing sunset from the Skyline bar, the sun not completely setting and providing us with the most colorful sky and shoreline. The pic below is taken after 10pm. Next stop Juneau. I was beginning to enjoy the gentle rocking of the ships as we cruised in calm waters. 

Peaceful coffee on the beach with the best outlook

Paddlers ready for an adventure........

Surprise! Humpback feeding and playing just offshore

The fleet ready to go

Totem at Hoonah 

My eagle friend - Still working on the flight pics

Sunset from the Skyline bar

Cruising Part 1

Summer in England can be a little fickle and this year it has been! Since the lovely days in June following royal exploits, I've had the good fortune to enjoy the Guildford Festival listening to opera on a balcony dated back to the1600s from the cobbled street below; celebrated birthdays, mine and others; wandered canals visiting Norman castle ruins, picking blackberries and enjoying the swans and other wild life; and going on a cruise from Vancouver to Alaska. I was never sure about cruising, and have made comments about my first being when I'm 90 and in need of someone cooking and cleaning for me! I also knew this particular cruise went to places not accessible by road or rail so when Jane asked, I jumped to join.

Jane is the best travel companion and she had two friends with her this trip so I joined them exploring Vancouver and surrounds for a few days before heading to the ship. Roll back a bit to the flight over. Flying from Gatwick direct, I got a window seat for the day time flight. The view was amazing flying over Iceland, Greenland and Canada. I sat glued to the window and took a few pics of the glaciers, snowfields and ice bound seas below. Greenland was white? My seat mates were a father and son from New Zealand, now living in the UK, and they shared how they go to Canada to see their son/brother and to go mountain biking and hiking. The inability to travel lately has meant this is the first time they've gone in 3 years. Much excitement and another separated family story to add to my extensive collection. 

I've added some photos from the plane window below. They are of course not the best pics through a window but  I hope they give some idea of  immensity of the snow and icefields. Vancouver, well I've always found expat Canadians to be the very best of peoples and getting from the airport to the hotel showed me ones at home are too. It was my first time in Canada so I relied on going by train and then wandering with a vague idea of where I needed to be and asking people. Such lovely conversations were had and I found the hotel just when I was ready to expire, it was hot you see and I was dressed for the plane! 

Vancouver, what an interesting place. Jane and friends' hotel was in the central city and, while it was okay, the surrounding streets were not always. I was surprised to see so many homeless people and the open drug use in the streets. People doing meth and other drugs taking up the whole footpath and squabbling amongst themselves. Jane did some research after seeing catatonic people standing bent over and found there was a new drug which makes people into zombies? Not a good scene, and watching the poor ambulance first responders dealing with this was confronting. 

On the plus side, we did an evening ghost tour and learnt about the history of the place. I didn't realize how relatively new Vancouver was as a city, not much older than some NZ cities. Getting to know Mish and Bonnie over a lovely pasta and cocktails was great, welcomed and fitting in with this group who had journeyed up the coast from San Fran to Seattle then bussed across the border. We also took a trip out to the Capilano Suspension Bridge and had a wander through the park there. What a lovely spot in the sunshine. 

I've wandered alone so often I'd forgotten what it's like to have a suitcase minder, where I could wander off for food and loo without having to take my bag. This trip it was a small carry on for me but the others had bigger cases from longer trips to manage. The ghost tour made negotiating the city easier as we went past the key spots on our wanders. The busses and trains also took us where we needed. 

Boarding the cruise ship was easier than boarding a plane so soon we were on board and ready for a cocktail. Apart from the four I boarded with, there were other friends on the boat, ones in for a surprise as my joining them was a well kept secret. Pina coladas all round as we caught up on all the news and enjoyed some food, buffet style with lots of choice. Then we were on the way, pulling out of the harbor along the most scenic waterway. The first evening was getting to know the ship, fine dining and hitting all the bars. Fine dining, imagine not being able to choose which starter you wanted and getting both choices delivered. Made the most of the lovely food slow dining with friends and some fine wine. 

The next day was a sea day and then it was Ketchikan on Revillagigedo Island, a place only accessible by sea, to hunt for bears, salmon and eagles. 100% strike rate as we watched a mum and baby cavorting in a stream chasing the enormous king salmon coming up stream with bald eagles looking on waiting for some left overs. Wow moments after wandering through the forest and seeing bear sign on the sides.
Later we got to see a large male black bear in the creek running through the middle of town. He was testing the water looking for food and had quite an audience. Unfortunately being in town meant he was a risk and the rangers had to chase him back to the wild, and if not, put him down. Sad really as we're in his space.  

For a first shore excursion it was magical, except for the number of people disgorged from the ships in port. People wandering around shopping and eating, meaning this small town was packed and noisy. Cruise ships are such a big boost to the local economy and they had been missed during the stay at home period we've just had so we were very welcome. The driver shared with us how the seasonal labor market worked in these town, students coming to work the season and heading back for university or work as the winter closed in. Not sure I'd like to winter over in the cold and dark although this island didn't always get snow, in part because of it's maritime location. 

Flying over Greenland

Steam clock - Vancouver 

Cruise terminal - all aboard!

Under way!

Cabin buddies 

A rescued bald eagle 

Ketchikan Stream.........

Complete with large bear

Ketchikan village

A right royal time

This week has been one to bottle. Royal Ascot means the royals are out and about and I had two wonderful opportunities to see them, one very much minus the crowds so I got up close. While I'm not really a true blue royal watcher, I chose not to go with the crowds and camp out on the Mall, I do love a bit of royal people watching. Well people watching in general. My lovely friend gave me two opportunities to be front row. The first the Royal Garter Ceremony at Windsor, the second the change over from cars to carriages in The Great Park. 

These were both events where only a few folks get to go, all dressed up (mostly) for the occasions. Hats, bubbles and picnics were the order of both days with people out socializing and enjoying the sunshine. It's been so lovely and warm here, lovely days to venture out without the usual coat. I've even topped up my tan, important for my next adventure as bikinis will be involved. 

Being in the grounds of Windsor Castle is always a highlight for me. We sat on the grass in the sun waiting for the special folks to come down the path to St George's Chapel for the ceremony. There were plenty of other important people wandering about too, including those privileged enough to go to the service in the church. The police and guardsmen were placed along the route, the Household Cavalry band marched its way to the parade ground, and then came the royals. Princes Edward and William were deep in conversation, laughing and enjoying their wander through the people. Then came the King and Camilla, smiling and acknowledging the crowd. It's hard to make it sound special really, the atmosphere was wonderful as the procession was cheered on. 

It was really hot, even for me, so I was pleased to have my hat and some water. The poor guardsmen with their heavy uniforms and bear skin hats didn't fare so well in the heat. One across from us was swaying worryingly, sword raised and the ladies behind him looking concerned. He managed to stay upright, until he didn't! When the royals and others were safely in the chapel we decamped to get a better view of the carriages returning from the church to the cheers of the crowd, the loudest cheer saved for William and Kate.

Heading to The Great Park, behind those big gates and fences, was a treat. This time I had the picnic packed, plus the local royal school  PTA had home made cakes and scones. There were so few people here, a real invite only crowd. The school kids were there in force and many elderly people were enjoying the day out too. Knowing where the change over happens is key and I had a front row spot, chatting to the folks who let me in. Being from New Zealand really helps on occasions like this. The carriages arrived to a murmur of excited anticipation, then the cars arrive. A procession of Rolls Royce full of royals. although not Kate and Will this time. I got some good up close pics as the King changed from the car to the carriage right in front of me. 

After enjoying our picnic, we drove through Ascot and saw the carriages returning minus their royal cargo. Ascot was heaving with people and the outfits and hats were quite beautiful. The shoes, well not sure how I'd last a day in some of them. I did have shoe envy, although I increased my collection by three the previous week just so I had a fancy enough pair for this occasion. Here are some pics from The Great Park day. I was too busy enjoying Windsor to get any good ones there.

Your carriage awaits

Here? Looks comfy!

Sun hats on!

                                    

Off we go!

It's not Ascot without Princess Anne

The drive out - following the car with the police bikes

A day out in Paris

 Wow, just wow! I hear all sorts of things about Paris, mostly not very complimentary, but every time I go there it fills me with joy and delight. Even that time when I got soaked and it was unexpectedly chilly. Or that time I was jammed up against a fence, front row standing, watching the Tour de France riders race past after joining the Tour for a while as it wended its way through the most beautiful countryside. Or the time I got hangry in La Louvre and made my travel companion leave so I could find a baguette and some cheese, about all our budget ran to that trip! Or sitting in the Tuileries watching the world go by after an amazing trip to Musee de O'rsay. Or this trip wandering around the 3rd Arrondissement with my lovely Gold Coast friend Nicole and her daughter.

The arrondissement, called Temple is situated on the right bank of the River Seine. The arrondissement contains the northern, quieter part of the medieval district of Le Marais and is one of the oldest parts of Paris with none of the large boulevards created after the French Revolution. The oldest surviving private house of Paris, built in 1407, is to be found in the 3rd arrondissement, 52 rue de Montmorency. 

The ancient Jewish quarter, the Pletzl which dates from the 13th century, begins in the eastern part of the 3rd arrondissement and extends into the 4th. It is home to the Agoudas Hakehilos synagogue designed by the architect Guimard. Although trendy boutiques are now taking up many of the storefronts, there are still landmark stores selling traditional Jewish foods. And this is where we started our walking, eating and exploring tour. 

First step, find Nicole and Liv. Easier said than done, the detail I didn't take care of was the finer detail of where exactly they were! The train from Lille and negotiating the underground went well. Wandering, asking people, back on the underground, begging for wifi from a café. Resourceful. Not helpful with no internet. Manage to find them I did, at their closest underground station so we wended our way to the 3rd after much laughter and catching up. 

I initially though the tour was a little on the pricey side, an opinion I changed as we wandered, explored the history of this place and enjoyed the varied cuisine. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and entertaining and he took us places we'd never find by ourselves. It was also lovely to talk with folks from all over the world as we wandered. I highly recommend this one, we booked through Get Your Guide here. My favourites were the chocolates and the food in the market. And of course the wine tasting at the end. 

Post tour we wandered to Place de Luxembourg, enjoying a much needed gelato while watching the people go by and the small radio controlled yachts on the pond. A beautiful spot on an increasingly hot day. My companions, one new to Paris, enjoyed spotting the Emily in Paris places as we talked about how amazing the long twilights are at this latitude. You see on the GC, being semi tropical, the door slams shut on the day. Instant night quickly and quite early especially through the winter months. In Paris we were still sunning ourselves near La Louvre at a time when it would be dark on the GC. 

The girls headed off to continue their on-off bus adventures and an evening Seine cruise while I retraced my steps to Gar du Nord. Not too hard really. It was an adventure when I got there, foot sore and needing a sit down with a cold one. Not to be, it was madness! A long wait in a hot station heaving with people and nowhere to sit. Oh well Lille wasn't too far off when I got there. Back to Ypres and a nice cold Kriek was the order of the day. 

Nicole and Liv have a few more days in Paris then head south to Carcassonne and surrounds. They head off to Lake Como and Italy after that, they even get to visit Switzerland a place I've not been as yet. I love Carcassonne, one of the rare places in the world I have a hospital story. A me in the hospital story not me taking someone else! Seems marble staircases are not to be negotiated in socks, even before having a vino. Down I went in a heap with a torn off thumb nail and dented arm bone, all the while trying to convince our hosts I hadn't been drinking. Luckily the lovely French doc and his nurses were more sympathetic to this injured kiwi and much kinder than my family. An Xray and a few sacre blus later I was in a sling, and sent on my way. Seems I have very tough bones, ones that dent not break. Thankfully. 

Not sure when I'll get back to Paris. I'm on a long term promise with miss 12 to take her to Paris. It's been a dream of hers for a while, not quite sure why except knowing it's dangerous talking travel with me without having itchy feet. I have promised and I'd love to share this city with my grandies. Let's hope I get to soon, suspect I'll be back again before then. I'll keep you posted.

Cheese - lots of yummy cheese

Look what's behind me

Gelato in the sun