Change of scene

I've been plagued for years by sore tummys, the ones that keep you awake at night and mean an early wake up. Ones where restrictive diets help, no gluten or wheat or seeds or meat, but don't completely fix the issues. Moving to the UK made it worse, moving to France has more than made it better. I've noticed during my trips here buying then renovating the house that the sore tummys go away, even eating baguettes and croissants with loads of butter and confiture. I was hoping this would continue living here and a little over two weeks in it has. 

I've been having the best sleeps in the heat under the ceiling fan, no sore tummy to wake me or keep me awake. Pizza for dinner last night, beer and wine, and baguette for breakfast. No issues. I've lost a bit of weight too, fitting into my tight shorts comfortably. The only thing I'm doing differently is eating cleaner food, local food without the stuff mass produced food has in it. Bread that's not edible the next day, not that there's any left usually, fresh local fruit and vege from the markets - not perfect fruit, naturally ripened fruit that tastes like it was just picked, sun kissed. The fruit from my childhood. 

Fruit I come home and cook and freeze for winter breakfasts. The wine is also cleaner, from a local vineyard traditionally produced and bought in 10 litre boxes for under 30 euros a box. Our home is also quiet, thick stone walls and mostly double glazed, on a quiet street. A cool sanctuary in the heat. Best of all is the relaxed lifestyle. The greetings from the neighbours on the morning baguette run; the laughs with the folks at our local cafes and bars; the interesting places to explore and wander; the busses going to places we want to; and the helpful people we find when we need something. Like the giant fridge/freezer I managed to buy and get delivered with quite the language barrier and the Smeg stove we bought last visit to the same shop. Both on sale with the best discounts. 

So all in all, despite the ongoing issues with getting the roof replaced, the best change of scene. 

A PS for the last post

Well, the tour Jules was on was amazing. Such history here, much of which I've read about over the years being a huge fan of Kate Mosse's books set in the area and beyond. I've visited most places in the books too, watching them come to life. 

I digress. The reason I didn't go on the local tour is I'd hurt my back and walking was for any distance was a challenge. Later that day I had to go to Place Carnot to meet with Margo the Marmite provider so I didn't want to risk not being able to do that. And I'm so delighted I went to meet Margo, a six degrees of separation meeting where we talked of people and places we both knew well. I'd had my home fix with a lovely like minded, adventurous, creative kiwi woman of around my age. Or so I thought. 

Enter fix number 2. There's an Irish bar here, The Celt, and a hot day meant a cold beer and cider were required. Imagine our surprise when a table full of young folks Jules immediately picked as squaddies (soldiers) and I picked as local to Aotearoa. The barman who already knows our name, put on some New Zealand classics like Pokarekare Ana and Nga iwi e, and then we were all one whanau enjoying singing and getting to know each other. It seems soldiers from New Caledonia, Tahiti and surrounding islands come here quite often. Mostly French speaking of course but still knowing these classics. 

I had the best day and had a huge smile on my face as we wandered home for dinner. Such a gift.

He aha te mea nui o te ao

What is the most important thing in the world?

He tangata, he tangata, he tangata

It is the people, it is the people, it is the people

Māori Proverb

Gotta pinch yourself....

As one of my lovely friends said after seeing one of my Facebook posts. Yes, there are days, like today, when that is indeed true. Today I got to watch le Tour de France leave from Carcassonne, 5 minutes walk from our place up by La Cite. I went to the start line and engaged with the caravan, seeing all the trucks, busses and logistic involved with this massive event then up to wait for the stars. On the side of the road, with Jules who's not keen on cycling as  a sport. In 40 degree heat. How exciting when the riders come past. We needed an ice cream to cool down after all the excitement and I suspect Jules has changed his view of le tour. 

A week in and Carcassonne is the gift that keeps on giving, except for the Maire and the elusive permissions to get our roof repaired. It's lovely and hot here and our home is cooled by the ceiling fans we had fitted. Lots of cleaning to be done and things to finish over time. What a difference clean windows make and the steam mop for the floors arrived this morning. There's a great Leclerc supermarket and other shops a 10 minute bus ride away. The best shop find is JYSK, a Danish version of IKEA with better quality furniture. We bought a wardrobe with drawers and shelves as well as hang space to tide us over until our proper wardrobe is ready. Dependent on permissions to get the roof replaced. 

It was a surprise the roof needed to be replaced. Everything has been delayed really as we were originally starting on the top floor and working our way down. Best laid plans didn't survive contact. Oh well, on the upside we'll have a new roof, fully insulated without head height sacrifices. The beams look amazing cleaned up and the lovely wide oak planks of the floor will be restored to their former glory. Including removing the white paint on part of it. The good thing is we're here and able to do bits and pieces while being builder labourers. 

The courtyard is the next job. A morning job because its too hot out there in afternoon. There's a planter box to dig out, getting rid of a vine that seems to come from the neighbours place, some rocks, building detritus and an ants nest. There's a pile of now dried plant matter from the planter box and other places to bag and add to the green bin outside. The big building things will need a van. I strung up a clothes line, very efficient in the heat. The planter box will become a seat with a wooden slat top and cushions with a space in the middle for a grapevine. We need some shade so we'll make an overhead trellis for the vine. Shade in summer, cut back for winter. Grapes seem to grow really well here in wine country so it should work well. 

And wine country it is. Three ten litre boxes of the very best rose, chardonnay and merlot currently in our utility room. Andrea took us to a local vineyard shop and we bought the wine after a tasting. I'm decanting the white and rose into bottles for the fridge. The very best wines for less that four euros a bottle. I love the attitude to wine here. It's plentiful and inexpensive, even in cafes, and the best quality. There's a wine shop next door for special occasions too. 

Today Jules has gone on a tour covering the WWII history of the area while I'm having a much needed home day. Later today I'm meeting a lady from NZ who has a 500g jar of New Zealand marmite for me. Seems someone brought too many jars for her to use and I get to benefit. I'm almost out so it's timely. People we've met here are friendly and welcoming. Cyril the owner of the Tabak and boulangère who puts up with my poor French on the baguette run each morning; the neighbours who all have a bonjour and smile when they see us; the people in the local cafes who know now we're regulars; the people I bought our new giant fridge and Smeg stove from; the people who are in the English speakers of Carcassonne Facebook group, French, American, English and other nationalities, meeting weekly for a chat; and of course our lovely builder Andrea and the folks she brings in to help with making this house our home. 

All in all an excellent move for us, the last for a while I hope. 

The remaining 'to unpack' pile awaiting rooms to be finished

Morning view with a lovely breeze

Happy campers wandering back from an ice cream trip

It's been 22 years Tour de France, you're worth the wait

Under starters orders 

And past they go, chatting and relaxed in 40 degree heat

Even managed to catch Tade and friends