More Roman history

Jules takes me to the best places, exploring the close by and far away in UK terms. Not quite the same as in Aussie terms with the traffic making many short journeys a long term adventure, dodging the parking spots on highways, heading down very narrow lanes through bucolic countryside, stopping for a quiet one at a country pub and enjoying the lovely old homes along the way all part of the adventure. 

Our Sunday drive took us to nearby Silchester and the Roman town of Calleva Atrebatum, an historically important town for over 400 years. The site was originally settled in the Iron Age and the Roman's resettled there in the first century BC prior to the major Roman settlement of England. Unlike similar settlements in places like Turkey and Jordan, there is very little left of Calleva Atrebatum, just the flint and mortar filling from inside the wall. 

We had quite a discussion about that and came to a few possible conclusions. The building materials were very different. There was not easy access to marble or granite columns and large blocks of stone, more likely flint and clay and whatever stones the region had locally were the best materials available. The weather is very different, a wetter and harsher climate than the Middle East so preservation may have been more difficult. The settlements may not have been intended to be permanent, quite likely intended as stopping places for the Roman army rather than the prosperous towns they became. The local folks may have reused the materials to build new structures and strengthen old ones, as we do today when materials are already at hand. I've done no research on this, just some Sunday surmises about peoples long gone who left their mark on the land, the language and the culture of this place.

We wandered along the pathways, something I love to do here, and climbed up onto the wall enjoying the view and the sunshine. It was a beautiful day here on Sunday. The walk around the area where the town was is about 2.5ks. As always there was a lovely village church along the way. St Mary the Virgin Church has been dated back to the early 12th century and is sited just outside the walls of the Roman town. The layout and size of St Mary's suggest it may have been built atop a square Romano-Celtic temple, probably in an area of the Roman city already set aside for religious buildings. 

I love to wander in old churches, not just because they are old, more because they all have stories. Stories of the people interred or honored there, of the community in which they once lived and the lives they led. One visible story here is of Eleanor Baynard, daughter of Sir John Bluet (d. 1306), lord of Silchester manor. Eleanor's effigy is an example of mid to late 14th-century workmanship, in what is known as the Westminster School style. I'm not sure if Eleanor is interred there as the writing on the effigy and surrounding floor slates was faint. Thanks for the info Britain Express, the link to their site is above. 

I've always loved history, and herstory too of course. The places I travel have inadvertently led me to exploring Roman history in many countries. Having read widely about Roman/Saxon/Norman history in the UK, and visiting many sites here, I'm adding to my understanding of how peoples settled new lands. A cycle repeating itself throughout history as we travel and find treasures, in whatever guise they come to us. I'm always learning and keen to know more and would love to join a dig exploring the hidden histories one day soon. 

There are some ghosts in the pics below, not real one but ones where my lens cover broke and caused some interesting refractions. I suspect it broke in Antalya that day I got lost and hot and flustered and dropped my phone. 

The town map

Part of the original wall 

St Mary's Church

Eleanor 

Perge

A small post script following on from my last entry. I had an excuse to go to London on Thursday, one I took the train to Waterloo then the tube to Liverpool St Station to meet Ingrid. Ingrid is a person I connected with through a mutual friend and we'd not actually met in person until Thursday. We had talked via video calls so I knew what she looked like. We wandered to Borough Market via the Tower and surrounds. Once again the market was too packed to enjoy so we caught the tube back across the river to Shoreditch, an area I'd not really explored. The Dishoom Shoreditch restaurant was the best, lovely food washed down with a Kingfisher. By the time we got there we were well in need of a cold one. A lovely day of connection and wandering and the odd pic. 

Back to Perge or Perga. As I shared earlier, the Antalya Archaeological Museum was a treat. Exploring the maps of the area and where the artifacts were found, alongside the stories of the people and their lives. Best of all was the gallery of statues from Perge, friend Hadrian and his contemporaries, realistically portrayed in white marble. There's also information about where the statues were found, helpful for our visit. By the time we had explored the museum we were very keen to get to Perge. Enter AirBnb experiences where we found our lovely guide Onder who's knowledge of, and passion for, this amazing place brought history to life. I love how last minute things are so often the very best of experiences. 

The ancient city of Perge contains some of the most beautiful Hellenistic and Roman Ruins in Turkey. Perge is rich with history as Alexander the Great once strode through its gates, and the Apostle Paul preached there on his missionary journeys. We wandered in the searing heat checking out the massive theatre first. Third only to Ephesus and Aizanoi and built in the traditional Greco-Roman style, the theater could probably seat around 12,000 people. Standing in the middle looking up at the terraces you could almost hear the cheering crowds as they enjoyed the entertainments offered. Not in this case the gruesome kind, more likely plays and shows because of the way the theatre was built and the type of stage. 

Heading into this ancient city through the gates we wandered along colonnaded streets with columns of granite and marble towering above and mosaics underfoot. The mosaics were mostly protected by matting, with some places less likely to be damaged open to view. Perge was a very prosperous place and a market for the surrounding areas as well as the travelers passing through. Spaces for shops can still be seen lining the streets. Some even have signs indicating what they might have sold, like the fish shop with the carved stone images. Did I mention it was hot? Shade was not too plentiful so we found a spot next to one of the gates and the remains of a fountain to take a break. The place looked quite familiar then I realized it was where many of the museum statues had come from. 

Onder regaled us with stories from this place. Stories of peace, wealth, how the city sustained itself with artesian water and the people who both lived here and traveled through. Shutting my eyes I could hear the horses, the chatter of commerce, the odd chariot and the roars of the people watching in both the theatre and the stadium (similar to Circus Maximus). Best of all there were very few people visiting when we did so it was quiet enough to feel the atmosphere. Did I mention it was hot? Maybe that's why, sensible folks visit at more sensible times of day! 

When you're in Antalya look up Onder either on Get your Guide or AirBnb experiences. He also shares other places in this beautiful part of the country with traveling folks so check out what else he does. You won't be disappointed. 

Emperor Hadrian - Antalya Archeological Museum

Nymphaion from the period of the Emperor Hadrian. From the statue laying on a base, the water flows directly below the statue into the channel running in the colonnaded street north to south.

Colonnaded street with granite columns, many re stood on new plinths 

 

Some complete with cap stones

An area of mosaic being restored

The city baths showing the heating and cooling system

London let me count the ways....

I fell in love with London on my first ever visit. An impromptu visit when Lisa asked us to come and see her. I suspect she was a little homesick having not long arrived and we were in Calais with a rental car wondering what next. We is my now ex husband and I, on our 'we're really too broke to do this trip' adventure to Europe in 2004. We were on the tightest budget, one that saw us camping in odd spots while following the Tour de France and eating cheap with our small camping stove. Wine rule was if it's over 3 Euro its a no - that worked most of the time! 

It was the best trip. One where we woke one morning to find ourselves in the midst of a Gypsy encampment. I did wonder why the women in the loos seemed to know each other and looked a bit oddly at me, and why the water was so cold. The kids on the other hand enjoyed the novelty I was and we made friends, which of course led to the mums knowing I was okay. So many stories from that time untold here, pre blogging and no proper camera. 

So, Calais. The ferry was not too expensive so off we headed with no accommodation prebooked, an esky full of camping stuff, a tent, two packs and whatever else we could carry. Two grubby hobos. The customs guys on one side were okay, pleased I suspect to be handing us over to the UK. The UK ones had 20 questions, 19.5 of which we couldn't answer. A very last minute plan, and no we don't know where we're staying in England. That big place called London might have a bed or two? 

I expected the journey to be longer, it wasn't and soon we were in Dover. There was a bus to the station, it  cost 2 pound. We didn't have 2 pound. We didn't have 2 Euro not that it counted. And there was nowhere to get said 2 pound. A lovely young American man spotted us our fare and we were off to the station to get the train to London, which I think took longer than the ferry journey. Still loaded up with camping stuff and looking more and more like we were heading to Hyde Park to set up our tent. 

Arriving in Paddington later in the evening saw us wandering and wondering where we'd stay. We asked a friendly looking person. Did I say we still looked like grubby hobos? Turns out he was Scottish and laughed at our dilemmas, thinking typical bloody kiwis I suspect. He pointed us to a cheaper part of town and we found a dodgy room in a place with a shower in the room and a loo down the corridor. Interesting place really. 

The next day dawned hot and sunny and off we went to see the sights and have lunch with Lisa. Wow, all of the places I'd seen and read about over the years, from the historic times and the Romans to the current times right there. It was so exciting. I couldn't get enough. The Tower was out of our budget, it was that or food, so we wandered around it and walked over the bridge and along the South Bank. As I said I fell in love with London those days. We had a picnic lunch in Hyde Park with Lisa, bought from a shop more fancy than we'd been to before. 

That was the start. My next visit was in 2010 then as often as possible since. And it never gets old. Now it's just a short train ride away and I get to wander when I please. It was my birthday wish to go to the British Museum and Greenwich. What a treat of a day with lots of wandering, eating, Pimms on the Thames, sightseeing and people watching. I've also caught up with Jenny from the Cayman days, Kate my niece and Kate from those Al Ain days there. Finding new spots to eat and drink, soaking in the pub culture.  

Some of the other visits have been included in previous posts so here's a couple of pics from my happy birthday to me trip where Jules gave me a treat of a day out in my favorite city. And 22,647 steps, also typical of my London wanders! 

So why did this post evolve? I was writing about our time in Antalya and my brain side tracked to comparing the British Museum to the Antalya Archeological Museum. While it was smaller the one in Antalya was much better laid out, showing the pieces that actually came from the area rather then ones taken from the places they belong. I don't have too much of an opinion on that, except that human remains should not be disturbed. Plus when we were there we discovered a place called Perge and I found links with my favorite book Birds without wings which I knew was set in the Antalya region. Perge had been discovered before of course. We decided we would visit, booking an Airbnb experience for the next day. The next post is about Perge.

HBD to me! Pimms all round 

Greenwich from halfway up

View from the top - Quite a haul up that hill!

Love a good ship in a bottle

Greenwich

Big Ben unwrapped at last!

The next adventures

Phew that's the cruise posts taken care of and I can move to the next adventure. With so many adventures in between like the weekend of seafood eating at Seafest Weymouth, the stop at Westminster on the way home and various day trips exploring close by. And the very biggest, most exciting and wonderful of news, the arrival of number 7 grandbaby. Raphael is a fellow Leo, like his next up cousin Lily, and he's delightful. I can't wait to meet him, I'm booked to head south again for November so will get plenty of cuddles very soon. 

The next big adventure was a trip to Turkey. It's been 19 years since I was last there, far too long really. I loved my trip in 2004 when I got to stay with Di in Istanbul and travel through the country to the south. I celebrated my birthday that year in a cave hotel eating the best cake and drinking raki with white cheese and watermelon with the hotel owner. All arranged by the lovely Hayden, a wandering kiwi in Istanbul. It was the very best trip. 

This time it was Antalya, a different spot from where I'd been before. I was so excited when we landed, late so needing to get to the apartment in the city quickly. We stayed right at the start of the local shopping district, a short wander from the sea and the touristy areas. I much prefer to stay a bit local, eating at local restaurants and spending money in local shops. Like the Migros under the apartment, the supplier of the essentials and chocolate. The first day we wandered to the old city, found the best seafood restaurant and people watched while acclimatizing to the heat. The food was delicious. Very fresh fish washed down with a cold Efs. 

Emperor Hadrian was very busy while he reigned and I've been to many places he touched. Like here where there's a gate named in his honor. A very old gate set within the very old city walls. The worn flagstones under the gate were slippery so I kept to the rough stones as I looked for the best places to capture this amazing place. It was really hot so the nearby cafe was a good spot to rest and cool down, joined by the cutest kitten who appreciated time on my knee and the largest dog who lay next to us. 

Kangal dogs are a large, powerful, heavy-boned dog, whose size and proportions have developed naturally as a result of its continued use in Turkey as a guardian against predators. They are gorgeous although I did see a few tourists shy away from the particularly large one who befriended us. The wandering animals are treated with respect, well cared for and loved. We enjoyed the company of many of them as they received a pat and wandered with us. The restaurants welcome the animals and feed them on table scraps. 

We booked an outing on a boat the next day, exploring the coast and a swim seemed easiest from a boat. Well, what an adventure that was! One where a few people had to be rescued, the last a woman who had floated off on a very strong current. Luckily there were passengers who could swim and knew how to rescue someone. The poor crew were at a loss and, despite moving the boat closer to the woman, the ropes were too short to reach her. She was exhausted when she finally got back on board, and a bit sheepish. I'd been in the water twice and the tide was so strong I decided to abandon the swim as I know I'm not a strong swimmer. It was lovely being in the warmish sea again, I've missed that. 

One thing I love about Turkey is the freshness of the food and that evening dining at a local kebab restaurant I tucked into the very best salads and dips while my companion enjoyed a kebab with all the trimmings, and chai lots of chai. A couple of days of wandering in the heat left me looking for other transport options like the tram for the next day's wander to the beach via the museum. 

Hadrian's Gate

Amazing detail under the arches

I did visit for a look - so tempting!

Beautiful day out on the water

A boat is safe in the harbor. But this is not the purpose of a boat
Paulo Coelho

Cruising - The final stop

The final stop was Seward. We were all packed up, breakfasted and off the ship early. What to do until our train journey to Anchorage set off? There's an aquarium with puffins and other sea life so that's where we wandered. The puffins were such clowns and seemed to enjoy playing up to the cameras. The sea lions were being fed and the other fish swimming around happily. It was a small place and the work they do preserving sea life and informing people about sea life was evident. I often find places like this are there to inform and preserve and many of their captive animals are one who would not survive back in the wild. 

Seward had good coffee and food and we wandered over to the library once we were done to enjoy the warmth with a good book. The train was going later so there was a lot of time to kill. Shopping in the local supermarket to stock up for the journey I realized just how expensive it was in this isolated place. The train journey was very scenic and I got to enjoy the company of a couple of women who belong to a Facebook group I'm on - Solo travelling women. We had a great catch up. 

Anchorage, well our first night was eventful. We were late arriving and when we arrived at our room there was a strong smell of smoke and other substances. A knock on the door was answered with a 'just a minute' and out came a young man in a fug of smoky smells. He looked as surprised to see us as we were to see him! It seems he was told the room was empty and he was able to sleep there. You see he was one of the many homeless in Anchorage. Down to reception and a new room, one in which one of the beds had been slept in. We remade it with clean sheets. 

Morning came around too quickly, it was very late when we arrived, and the girls left me on my own as they headed off to the airport and back to Australia and New Zealand. I must confess I felt more than a bit lonely so got up and headed out for a wander and breakfast. The helpful staff gave me a suggestion, it was packed with over an hour to wait so I wandered to a less busy place. There was a four table with a couple seated at it so I asked politely to join them. We had a lovely chat, turns out she was a recently retired teacher. Then three fishermen joined me and a lively discussion about fishing from Seward ensued as endless coffee was added to my cup. Okay and much needed coffee too. 

Almost time for the airport, just a few souvenirs to buy. The people in Anchorage were so helpful pointing me to the free airport shuttle so off I went. Next stop Vancouver late at night, and an interesting AirBnb. At least it was warmer there!

Puffin fun!

Glaciers everywhere

A scenic journey

Cruising Part 5

Maybe I need a better title for each of these posts. I didn't expect there to be so many! Anyhow, the evening promised an aurora borealis and I was fooled by the rainbow over the bay. False alarm. Seeing the real one meant getting up in the night and while I was all for that, the clouds closed in and we missed this chance. We were up very early to get a good place to view the Hubbard Glacier. Some from the ship went in a much smaller boat to get up very close. As I've been up close to glaciers before, even climbed up one, I preferred to stay on board where it was slightly warmer. About as warm as standing in front of an open freezer door.  

Have I mentioned anywhere yet about my packing gaff? I travel light, carry on light, even for a two week adventure. I had looked at the weather, great it's summer; Vancouver  looks hot, Alaska not too cold; and packed my bikinis in preference to my warm coat. Rookie mistake, at least I did pack my light rain coat and had layers and a warm pashmina so made do. It was just a bit chillier in these parts than I'd imagined, even in summer.  

I waited patiently up top at a window opening to the glacier side of the ship with my big camera and long lens. What a lovely journey up Disenchantment Bay. The mist was low on the hills, mountains peeking out up higher and small ice burgs rocking in the ships wake. The best thing was the crew and their wonderful hot chocolate, topping up mine when needed with a smile. I even had an a salaam alikom from the photographer, assuming the pashmina around my head in lieu of a hat was a hijab. We had a lovely chat, he had some great travel stories, and he offered to take my photo - no thanks the selfie I took will never see the light of day!

It was amazing seeing this massive glacier, seeing the ice right up the valley and the bright spots where it has calved. The results in the water as large blocks of ice. No amount of description here can do this place justice so I'll leave it to the pics. Some are from my phone with a couple from my Canon. We sailed away once the excursion boat was back and headed for our final stop overnight to Seward. 

The sky was once again amazing from the front of the ship, the sun still up until very late and a half light from there. The whales were out to play and we watched them from the warmth with cocktails in hand, the late sun lighting up the bar. 

Hubbard Glacier

The excursion boat heading off

Late night sky

Cruising Part 4

Drinks packages are dangerous. Or rather drinking your drinks package each day is! At least the place with good coffee was included. The evening entertainment was great. The dancers and acrobats and singers working hard to please the large crowds with bar staff bringing drinks when tops ups were needed. The Skyline lounge at the front of the ship was where much of the entertainment happened, well the entertainment involving the crowd. Like the very annoying quiz, that from me who loves a good bit of pub trivia. 

One of our group is a singer. Bonnie is quite amazing, very talented and confident. Certainly better than some of the talent on display and much better than any others at karaoke, not something I took part in because I know for a 100% certainty, and have done my whole life - I can't sing! Just wish others understood that about themselves, although good on them for having a go and some were really good. Like the young man who wooed the crowd and had a serious conversation with the cruise director. 

It was hard on the ship to find a quiet out of the way spot and I tried many. Outside on the deck chairs when it was really cold worked and, if one could be nabbed, in the big yellow winged chairs near the café. Not quiet given it's a café but turning the chair meant an ocean view. Wonderful reading my book while on the look out for wildlife. I saw a couple of Orca from there as well as the usual seals, dolphins and humpbacks. Such a treat. Others wanting the other chair in the pair joined me, also intent on a book and sea watching. 

Skagway was our next stop and the White Pass and Yukon Route by train. Jane is the very best organizer. She chose and booked all the shore excursions and they were the very best. Bears, eagles, whales, rugged countryside, salmon to eat and alive, and trains. I love trains. I've always hankered for a model railway and ride on trains as a preference when needing transport. The White Pass train was an old one, refurbished carriages pulled by an appropriately sized engine. We needed our passports as we were heading back into Canada, a formality as an official came through the carriage and checked. Thankfully it didn't take too long as I needed the loo. Having a wee in Alaska in the morning and the next one in Canada a few hours later. Didn't think that would be a thing lol!

The train wended up the very steep and unforgiving track alongside the Skagway River, a trail used by men to access thee Klondike gold fields back in 1896-7 when gold was found. The treacherous trail of over 500 miles took the lives of many unprepared miners and sadly their pack animals. It's estimated 3000 horses died  on the White Pass trail due to both the tortures of the trail and the inexperience of the stampeders, as the prospectors were called. Horrific stories of hardship, starvation and deprivation all in the pursuit of gold. To read more here's the National Parks Service site. 

The view out the windows was stark and the unforgiving landscape made me wonder at the madness caused by the cry of 'there's gold in them there hills'! I've been told I'm a bit of a risk taker but there's no way I'd brave the terrain, the weather, the bears and the madness of others on such a trek. I guess the hopeless poverty of the day played a part, a chance for a family to break the chains. Interesting thinking about the USA and how it is such a high pressure society with wealth and making wealth deciding factors in people's futures intergenerationally.  

But I digress. Seems to happen when I start a post one day then pick it up the next. Where was I?

I've looked through the pics and although they don't really do the journey justice, some are below. As well as one of the yellow chair, just the perfect spot for coffee and a book. We left Skagway in a misty drizzle watching the helicopters take off showing the tourists the rugged country by air. The next highlight was Disenchantment Bay and the Hubbard Glacier.

Glacial river carving through the land

Into the tunnel we go!

Cruising Part 3

I was reflecting on my trip and realized I missed a piece about connection. At the hotel in Vancouver there was a roof terrace and we decided to end a satisfying day with a few drinks and snacks from the 7Eleven there. Enjoying the late afternoon sun. There were other folks there, two people who turned out to be New Zealanders. Jokingly I asked if they knew Diana when they said they were from Wellington. And yes they did, very well as she was a relative. Such a small world. I ended up having a couple of messages with her on Messenger and we're hoping to connect for a proper chat. Diana was one of my Wellington crew, the crew I had the best time with. There are pics here from our 2014-15 adventures. 

Juneau. We had planned a lighter day here and a wander around town. The first stop was the Mendenhall Glacier. Being from New Zealand it takes a lot of glacier to impress me and I found this one a little underwhelming. It would have been lovely to have gotten closer. The wander along the track was refreshing, chatting with Mesh and enjoying the waterfalls. On the way back to town we had the best treat, a salmon bake - lots of lovely salmon. The salmon was very red and a little overcooked for me so I asked for an under done one for seconds. The lady slaving over the hot fire was delighted someone else liked salmon cooked less and we had a chat as she prepared the best salmon for me. The area around the Gold Creek Salmon Bake was lovely too as we wandered along Gold Creek to the waterfall and toasted marshmallows over the fire. 

Back on the bus feeling very full, we headed to the Red Dog Saloon, an iconic venue in Juneau where duck farts were the order of the day. Duck farts are quite delicious shots layered Kahlua, Baileys and whiskey. The waitress recommended we had a go at the reindeer farts too, similar but with a minty addition. The bar was really busy with lots of historical memorabilia on the walls, hanging from the rafters, on the floor and everywhere with a flat surface. The bear hanging behind us looked fierce, sad to see his pelt stretched out on a wall. Jane booked us a whale watching trip with a local tour operator. I was feeling sleepy so not too enthused, that and I'd seen heaps of whales from my Gold Coast balcony. I was so pleased she booked it as we got to see a very special event, whales bubble net fishing. 

Bubble net fishing is unique to Alaska. It's amazing to watch a pod of humpback whales lay their bubble net then leap up, mouths open, to catch the fish they captured in their net. The seagulls and seals are there for their share, dodging the wide open mouths. I got some amazing pics and I'm in the process of editing these so here's a video with an explanation instead. Much better represents this amazing spectacle. The pod we followed had 18-20 whales as was larger than the whale boat crew had seen in a while. Lovely to see the crew so engaged and enjoying this as much as we were.  

We headed back to the boat big smiles on our faces. I was looking forward to checking my photos on a big screen and regretted not having my iMac at home to process these. The evening promised more entertainment, food and cocktails. It's a tough life this cruising! Next stop Skagway. 

Playing with filters - Humpback fountain

Waterfall watching

Mildenhall Glacier

Our very large and fierce bear companion 

Duck Farts at the Red Dog

Cruising Part 2

After the fine dining the night before the buffet didn't quite do it for me. Being a pescatarian, a vegetarian who eats seafood, the range was a bit limited. Surprising given we were in the land of salmon, large crabs and other seafood delights. I managed quite well in the end, standing in line, chatting with folks and finishing off with the best sorbet. The evening entertainment was great with a cabaret style show followed by drinks at the front of the ship in the Skyline bar. 

Icy Strait Point and a small fishing town called Hoonah was the next stop and again it was heaving with people. We queued for the gondola and went up a small rise. Icy Point's high point was the free internet to make WhatsApp calls, something I couldn't do on the ship. There was also quite good coffee and I enjoyed it on the beach watching out over the water. Hoonah on the other hand was lovely. Hoonah is a largely Tlingit community on Chichagof Island, located in Alaska's panhandle in the southeast region of the state. It is 30 miles west of Juneau, across the Alaskan Inside Passage. Hoonah is a short wander from the commercial busyness of Icy Point and a welcome relief. I wandered there on my own taking pics along the way.

At Icy Point there was great excitement as a humpback breached just offshore and played a while for the audience it attracted. Imagine my joy when another breached near me on my wander to Hoonah, scaring the group of paddlers who had the front row seats. I took lots of pics, not crowded by people, and got to hear the whale song as he leapt about. What a magical spot the canoeists had. I had considered going out with a local guide but decided staying dry and having a wander was a better idea. Bugger! 

I visited some local crafts folks in Hoonah and had a lovely chat about their place and New Zealand and the similarities, right down to some of the art works and media. I explored for a bit chatting with some local fishermen and wandered back to the ship along the coastal path. Apart from the whales and bears, I wanted that iconic shot of a bald eagle flying. I looked up to see one flying towards me and beginning to bank around. The quick shots I took didn't quite work as I'd hoped but I had a second chance as he flew to a nearby tree. I watched him for a while and got some good close shots then off he flew. Bald eagles are really big and my zoom missed his wing tip so the second flight pic wasn't great either. 

Back to the ship and onwards to the next destination. Kiwis are a bit of a tribe when out in the world and the cruise director told us there were 23 of us on board, plus one dancer. Kiwis also know each other from somewhere or are related to/friends of/live in the same town as someones mutual friend. This trip was no exception. I met Wanaka (not his real name) while getting a burger. His wife and Jane went to school together and hadn't seen each other for years. In their party was a former All Blacks coach and NZ hero and his partner a national netball player. The dancer came from Christchurch, my old city, and that was just half the NZ crew. Laughs were had with stories exchanged over cocktails. They loved my bears in the stream video so I shared it. They'd paid a lot for an excursion and hadn't yet seen a bear or eagles. 

We hit the casino at some point, not my thing but I borrowed a fiver off Jane and set about winning around 100USD on the pokies, very helpful to my limited budget. We watched the most amazing sunset from the Skyline bar, the sun not completely setting and providing us with the most colorful sky and shoreline. The pic below is taken after 10pm. Next stop Juneau. I was beginning to enjoy the gentle rocking of the ships as we cruised in calm waters. 

Peaceful coffee on the beach with the best outlook

Paddlers ready for an adventure........

Surprise! Humpback feeding and playing just offshore

The fleet ready to go

Totem at Hoonah 

My eagle friend - Still working on the flight pics

Sunset from the Skyline bar

Cruising Part 1

Summer in England can be a little fickle and this year it has been! Since the lovely days in June following royal exploits, I've had the good fortune to enjoy the Guildford Festival listening to opera on a balcony dated back to the1600s from the cobbled street below; celebrated birthdays, mine and others; wandered canals visiting Norman castle ruins, picking blackberries and enjoying the swans and other wild life; and going on a cruise from Vancouver to Alaska. I was never sure about cruising, and have made comments about my first being when I'm 90 and in need of someone cooking and cleaning for me! I also knew this particular cruise went to places not accessible by road or rail so when Jane asked, I jumped to join.

Jane is the best travel companion and she had two friends with her this trip so I joined them exploring Vancouver and surrounds for a few days before heading to the ship. Roll back a bit to the flight over. Flying from Gatwick direct, I got a window seat for the day time flight. The view was amazing flying over Iceland, Greenland and Canada. I sat glued to the window and took a few pics of the glaciers, snowfields and ice bound seas below. Greenland was white? My seat mates were a father and son from New Zealand, now living in the UK, and they shared how they go to Canada to see their son/brother and to go mountain biking and hiking. The inability to travel lately has meant this is the first time they've gone in 3 years. Much excitement and another separated family story to add to my extensive collection. 

I've added some photos from the plane window below. They are of course not the best pics through a window but  I hope they give some idea of  immensity of the snow and icefields. Vancouver, well I've always found expat Canadians to be the very best of peoples and getting from the airport to the hotel showed me ones at home are too. It was my first time in Canada so I relied on going by train and then wandering with a vague idea of where I needed to be and asking people. Such lovely conversations were had and I found the hotel just when I was ready to expire, it was hot you see and I was dressed for the plane! 

Vancouver, what an interesting place. Jane and friends' hotel was in the central city and, while it was okay, the surrounding streets were not always. I was surprised to see so many homeless people and the open drug use in the streets. People doing meth and other drugs taking up the whole footpath and squabbling amongst themselves. Jane did some research after seeing catatonic people standing bent over and found there was a new drug which makes people into zombies? Not a good scene, and watching the poor ambulance first responders dealing with this was confronting. 

On the plus side, we did an evening ghost tour and learnt about the history of the place. I didn't realize how relatively new Vancouver was as a city, not much older than some NZ cities. Getting to know Mish and Bonnie over a lovely pasta and cocktails was great, welcomed and fitting in with this group who had journeyed up the coast from San Fran to Seattle then bussed across the border. We also took a trip out to the Capilano Suspension Bridge and had a wander through the park there. What a lovely spot in the sunshine. 

I've wandered alone so often I'd forgotten what it's like to have a suitcase minder, where I could wander off for food and loo without having to take my bag. This trip it was a small carry on for me but the others had bigger cases from longer trips to manage. The ghost tour made negotiating the city easier as we went past the key spots on our wanders. The busses and trains also took us where we needed. 

Boarding the cruise ship was easier than boarding a plane so soon we were on board and ready for a cocktail. Apart from the four I boarded with, there were other friends on the boat, ones in for a surprise as my joining them was a well kept secret. Pina coladas all round as we caught up on all the news and enjoyed some food, buffet style with lots of choice. Then we were on the way, pulling out of the harbor along the most scenic waterway. The first evening was getting to know the ship, fine dining and hitting all the bars. Fine dining, imagine not being able to choose which starter you wanted and getting both choices delivered. Made the most of the lovely food slow dining with friends and some fine wine. 

The next day was a sea day and then it was Ketchikan on Revillagigedo Island, a place only accessible by sea, to hunt for bears, salmon and eagles. 100% strike rate as we watched a mum and baby cavorting in a stream chasing the enormous king salmon coming up stream with bald eagles looking on waiting for some left overs. Wow moments after wandering through the forest and seeing bear sign on the sides.
Later we got to see a large male black bear in the creek running through the middle of town. He was testing the water looking for food and had quite an audience. Unfortunately being in town meant he was a risk and the rangers had to chase him back to the wild, and if not, put him down. Sad really as we're in his space.  

For a first shore excursion it was magical, except for the number of people disgorged from the ships in port. People wandering around shopping and eating, meaning this small town was packed and noisy. Cruise ships are such a big boost to the local economy and they had been missed during the stay at home period we've just had so we were very welcome. The driver shared with us how the seasonal labor market worked in these town, students coming to work the season and heading back for university or work as the winter closed in. Not sure I'd like to winter over in the cold and dark although this island didn't always get snow, in part because of it's maritime location. 

Flying over Greenland

Steam clock - Vancouver 

Cruise terminal - all aboard!

Under way!

Cabin buddies 

A rescued bald eagle 

Ketchikan Stream.........

Complete with large bear

Ketchikan village