Sir Lawrence

I posted a link to some very flash 'camping' in Wadi Ram this morning and got a reply from the lovely Sue aka Brosie who was my travel companion for most of my explorations in Jordan. The very best travel companion. Well except for the time she didn't bring her passport and we got accosted by armed blokes in the north near some tricky borders. Being kiwis we talked our way out of it, with the able help of our driver. I wrote a little about it in November 2010. Not nearly enough really as it was a very special adventure. 

Sue reminded me of a couple of pics she took of me - a story in itself and one linked to my Dorset trip. She'd been watching a doco on Laurence of Arabia (Thomas Edward Lawrence) at about the same time I was visiting the place he lived, and the spot where he died. The place he lived and worked in the Arab world was very different to the place he returned to and met his death. Much too early. 

A little history, thanks to the info board on site. From 1909 (aged 21) to 1914 Sir Lawrence spent a lot of time in Palestine, Syria and Jordan researching his thesis on Crusader castles and working as an archaeologist. He gaining great knowledge of Arabic language and peoples during this time. In 1916, he was posted to Hejaz, in modern Saudi Arabia, to work with the Hashemite forces. The campaign would secure him lasting fame in British popular legend. His role was to act as a liaison officer between the British Government and the Arab tribes. 

Returning to England in 1918 he lobbied unsuccessfully for Arab independence. He retired to Cloud Hills, Dorset in 1935. We drove past near dusk, stopping to pay homage. The memorial pictured below is quite difficult to read now having weathered over time. It reads:

Near this spot Lawrence of Arabia crashed his motorcycle and was fatally injured. 13th May 1935.

Sue and I visited the places in Wadi Ram where he met the Arab tribesmen, places preserved by the Jordanian people. Our Jordanian guides told us stories of how members of their families met with Sir Lawrence. They shared their thoughts on the historical and political ramifications for the mostly nomadic peoples of the area. 

Brosie is one of my oldest friends. Moving as I did as a child, nomadic ways carried into adulthood, I don't have many very old friends. We discovered our paths had crossed when we were in our mid teens, reminiscing in a tent at another beach many years later. She used to visit the beach I lived at and we'd been at the same summer holiday teenage bonfire. I was the feral local surfer and Sue the city girl. We've had quite a few adventures, working together for years and exploring different places. I hope we can catch up when I'm back in NZ in March. 

The memorial for Laurence of Arabia, Dorset

Sue's picture of me at sunrise, Wadi Ram almost 13 years ago

Dorset II

The return home. Wending our way from the coast along the coast exploring. The sea was still wild, the wind fiercely cold as we parked above Durdle Door admiring the amazing view. Getting out of the car was another matter, pushing the door against a gale. Coats and hats on down we went to see this iconic part of the coast. Icy puddles along the way. 

Durdle Door is a UNESCO natural World Heritage site. The magnificent natural limestone arch was formed when the power of the waves eroded the rock and forged a hole through the middle. The name Durdle is derived from an old English word ‘thirl’, which means to pierce, bore or drill. Although it was too windy and cold to stay long, the sun came out and I got some great pics. The car and its heated seats were a welcome sight after a steep climb. 

We back tracked along the coast to Weymouth, a lovely and popular sea side town, then out along the peninsular to Bill of Portland. The impressive Portland Bill lighthouse has been guiding ships in the hazardous English Channel waters for over 100 years. The day we were there it was clear just how treacherous the local waters are with large cross waves breaking onto the rocks and drenching anyone who got too close. I was a bit afraid of being bowled over by the wind, it was that strong, so I didn't go too near the waters edge. Exciting wander along the pathways. 

I was very ready for something to eat and getting hangry so it was onwards to Poole. Parking is interesting here. Different companies have control of the parks and while some parking can be paid through apps, being in the wrong company park means lots of swearing and relocating! We finally found a park near the town centre and wandered down to the harbor. The town was like many I've been to here; quiet, lots of empty shops and in need of some TLC. 

I've been hanging out for some fresh, locally caught fish. The King Charles Inn obliged with the yummiest seafood chowder. An appropriate name for the times too. The King Charles Inn is one one the oldest pubs in Poole. It became a public house around 1770 and the building dates back to around 1550. It's also listed as haunted. Legend has it a landlady who had thought her lover sailor had died at sea, hung herself from the old beams upstairs only to be found by her lover who then killed himself. There have apparently been some rather strange happenings in this pub over the years. Looking at the preserved yet original state of the place it's easy to believe it's haunted. 

We got home just after sunset, planning the next adventure on the way. I'm heading back south in mid February so I don't have much time left this trip.

Durdle Door and the Jurassic Coast

Durdle Door waves in action

Portland Bill lighthouse

Wild coast

Farnborough sunset

Dorset I

Last weekend we wandered to the south coast and the lovely wild scenery of Dorset. The best thing with having a local guide is the places we get to explore. Places often off the beaten track. The coast was cold, wet and windy with wild seas, just the way I like it. Well the wild seas rather than the cold and wet. The pic below shows I know how to dress to cope!

It was still light enough when we arrived to explore West Lulworth and get some much needed sea time. I suspect I'm not really designed to live inland. The pebble beach in a tight cove with a chilly sea breeze blew out the cobwebs. Watching a couple of cold water swimmer shrieking and laughing as they entered the water was hilarious - not for hot house flowers! West Lulworth is such a picturesque place with stone houses with thatched rooves and winter gardens. I quite fell in love. The Countryman hotel fitted the bill, a warm haven for a cold one and dinner. The first night folks were lovely, a couple of young lads running the place for mum and dad. The second night service was different, not quite such a friendly family affair. 

Saturday dawned wet, windy and cold. A big breakfast consumed we hit the road as the weather was becoming more exploring friendly. The lanes were narrow and rough as we headed towards Tyneham Village, an eerie place stuck in 1943. Tyneham was evacuated in December 1943 during WWII and has been deserted ever since. The area was needed for military training but after the war ended, the villagers were not allowed to return. Visiting Tyneham on a misty, drizzling day was a bit spooky. Wandering through peoples homes they were forced to leave and seeing what life was like from the 14th century until 1943. The church has an amazing array of artifacts, stories of the families and a timeline of local history. 

We wandered to the cove below the village as it fined up a bit. The rocky shore was wild with large waves crashing over a beach littered with pieces the storm had brought with it. Lobster pots, nets, bouys and other fishing detritus. I picked up a few stones and shells for my travel bowl and almost got caught by a surprise wave. Luckily I heard it coming and beat a hasty retreat, much to the delight of my companion laughing at me from very safe ground. 

Next stop was another wonderfully historic place, Corfe Castle and village. The sun had arrived and the mist cleared to wonderful views over the countryside. We explored the ruins in sunshine. Corfe Castle dates to about the 11th century and is thought to have been one of the earliest castles in England to be built partly using stone. Wandering amongst the stone towers and walls it's easy to imagine how this place withstood the sieges it was subjected to. We sat in the sun looking out over the Isle of Purbeck, enjoying the peace and beauty of the countryside. 

Pub crawling historic pubs was a great end to the day. There are some lovely old pubs, ones where the doors and beams were so low even I had to duck a bit. My favorite was The Castle Inn. I love the thatch roof cottages although they are not practical with high levels of upkeep and being a fire hazard. While I can dream of living in one, I suspect I might not enjoy the small windows and cool interiors. I slept well after a big day wandering in the cold, warmed by a tasty Spanish red. 

Tyneham Village

Rugged coast 

Lulworth Cove

Corfe Castle

The view

Picture perfect

Hat required

Catch up

It's about time I did a catch up on the pieces not quite a full post but special. December was quiet with bright spells like catching the train to London on the only non strike day that week to see Kate. Kate's my lovely niece and is over here from New Zealand starting a new job and a new life and, like me, enjoying the lifestyle change of this place. It had snowed a couple of days earlier and the snow was still around kept there by freezing temperatures. Much colder than my last winter visit in 2018. 

I wandered along both sides of the river to our meeting place, a lovely Italian restaurant near Tower Bridge. It was lovely to have NZ family time, catch up on the news and enjoy each other's stories. Kate went north to Edinburgh for Hogmanay and I can't wait to catch up again to hear all about it. Wandering back I got slightly misplaced, wandering through Borough Market to the wrong station. Luckily the help folks there pointed me in the right direction and my audio book and I departed back through the snowy countryside. 

Countryside, I think that's what always surprises me here. How much countryside there is when this quite small island has such a large population. I noticed that going south to Dorset a couple of weekends ago. That's my next post. Christmas was quiet as was new year, Facetime chats with the crew down south and time out to relax. Christmas dinner was a hot one, I love mid winter Christmases. 

Making the most of the time off we did some day trips. I'm surprised how many places are shut at this time of year. Places tourists like me would love to visit. One place open was the Royal Holloway University of London. Well the grounds were open for a wander. It has quite a history and the details are here. Unveiled in 1886 by Queen Victoria, the founders building is amazing. It's one of the first places in the UK women could attend university and was a place where women's suffrage was to the fore. My photos don't quite do the place justice, it's very hard to get the whole into one photo. The website has an aerial shot much better representing the place. 

Another visit was to the Battle of Britain Bunker, the war room where the logistics of the battle were negotiated, where men and planes were sent to an uncertain outcome. The history enacted here is reflected in the artifacts, photos and stories. The museum and bunker are well worth a visit. 

I'm quite enjoying a cold winter, my first in a while. Especially enjoying the snow, frozen puddles and heavy frosts, all from the comfort of a warm indoor space. Yesterday I went for a wander in -1 on a day with quite warm sunshine. My big coat, a 2018 UK purchase, has had good use. 

Cold driving

St Paul's from Millennium Bridge

Snowy rooftop - The Globe

Christmas market stalls

Dining with a view

Royal Holloway

Royal Holloway Chapel

Spain!

And this is a very short post because the visit over the border was very short! It was great to finally set foot in Spain, shame the day was wet and cold with a chilling wind off the Mediterranean. Not a day for a paddle in the Med I'm afraid, or an outside table for tapas and local wine sigh. I was quite disappointed really. We wandered through the streets, had a quick stop at a café then back we wandered. The pic quite possibly did do justice to the day!

Once we got back to Gib, we wandered up to visit the Moorish Castle. Alas the way the eluded us with dead end streets and a long uphill walk with steps. When the rain started we gave up. And rain it did with the roads becoming rivers and the two of us soaked, cold and bedraggled. Thankfully there was a bus stop and a minibus with a lovely driver who took pity on us and changed her route slightly to get us closer to the hotel. What an exciting drive through narrow streets flowing from the heavy downpour. We got inside and dry and down to the bar in time to see the road outside become an impassible river. The rain was so heavy the windows of the hotel started to leak causing a bit of chaos. 

Needless to say we stayed put, thank goodness because I was all walked out and ready for some spicy Prawn Pil Pil to warm me up. It was delicious as was the Spanish wine. You can tell the quality of your travel companions when there is no drama when plans change, you're soaking wet and lost. With the best ones you can have a laugh over food and wine at the end of the day. A very relaxing evening after a busy and often lost day.

Even the Rock was inhospitable

Proof I made it to Spain!

Gibraltar

It's another place from my long time bucket list after reading so many stories where it features. Sometimes as a sanctuary, most times as a place of mystery and action. I'm not sure what I expected really. A place with a rich history and I wasn't disappointed. A place with fresh seafood. I may well have been very disappointed by what was on offer so close to the sea. It was probably down to the places we went rather than a lack of fresh fish! 

As a British overseas territory, Gibraltar is very British with many reminders of the old country in the small bars, retail shops and signs. There was a mix of people, many Spanish and other European, either living in Gib or just across the border in La Linea de la Concepcion. It's cheaper to live there according to some folks we spoke with. The border crossing is not as easy as it was pre Brexit with posts to check us in and out with a stamp. Yes, a passport stamp! My passport is beginning to look like it used to. 

The flight in had my face pressed to the window looking out over Africa and Spain while approaching a runway with a road running through the middle. The traffic does get stopped thankfully! The photo below shows the rock on our approach. Once again BA came to the party with great service and flight crew. The airport was small too making the immigration process quick and easy. 

The Rock Hotel was a treat with a lovely big room and an amazing view over the harbor from the balcony. The people were lovely too, and the food and wine. The pool was closed of course, and the weather was certainly not inviting this hot house flower to take a dip. The main highlight was exploring the rather large rock towering above the hotel. The cable car was the best way up and the paths were designed for wandering with amazing views over the Straits to Africa and Spain, especially over the seaward side sheer drop. 

The first day was a trip up the hill by cable car, steep and directly to the top. Description defies me, the view from the top was outstanding - see the picture below. We wandered over to the other side, about 10 paces away, and had to do a sudden stop as the drop was sheer and there was no barrier. Got the heart going, luckily I'm not afraid of heights. The sky bridge over the cliff side a little further on tested my head for heights too.

We chose to wander rather than get a taxi or do a tour. A good idea when we saw the crowds disembarking from the mini vans and not really getting time to just be in the place. The van crowd did  supply some monkey business as the Barbary apes mobbed the vans and people looking for food. They ignored us so I was able to get close enough for some good shots. The plaques also had the key points and history of the places we wandered. 

The map and guide showed a place called St Michaels Cavern and Cabin, the later with souvenirs, beers and food. Folks who travel with me know I'm a bit fascinated with Archangel Michael and tend to visit where ever he's mentioned. I didn't hold great hopes for this attraction but I was footsore and in need of a loo and food break. Cold beers all round then a descent into the cave system. 

Wow! It was an amazing spot and showed the geological make up of this place with a vast cavern system complete with stalagmites and stalactites and hidden spots with a variety of minerals. We sat quietly in the semi dark enjoying the ambiance then the light show started illuminating different formations and showing why it's called St Michaels Cavern. It was amazing and a highlight of the hill wander. Hoping this is not a spoiler, a pic of this is below. A stalactite broke and fell in recent times and the cross section showed its history and mineral make up. We ended up spending a lot of time in the cavern, enjoying the space and peace.

Although the Rock is quite small, we managed a lot of walking on the first day. It's certainly not a one day wander and we returned on our last day to explore the castle and the caves and tunnels used in WW2 at the other end of the park.  Thankfully I packed my trainers this time as the tracks were challenging in places, especially as we headed down to towards town, both hurting and in need of food and a sit down. 

The view from the top of the cable car

Time for a groom 

Cavern light show

Stalactite cross section

Flying in - Exciting!

2022

As 2022 draws to a close there's lots to reflect on. What a year of change and upheaval; of letting go; of travel and adventures; of connection and freedom. I'm sitting here knowing it's already 2023 in New Zealand and Australia and enjoying a wet inside day to relax, listen to music and catch up here. I'm pleased 2022 is almost gone and 2023 awaits. I'm feeling more hopeful and positive than I have for years. A word for 2023 hasn't arrived yet, although Light is peeking through as a possibility. Light, lightness of space and place and connection.