A PS for the last post

Well, the tour Jules was on was amazing. Such history here, much of which I've read about over the years being a huge fan of Kate Mosse's books set in the area and beyond. I've visited most places in the books too, watching them come to life. 

I digress. The reason I didn't go on the local tour is I'd hurt my back and walking was for any distance was a challenge. Later that day I had to go to Place Carnot to meet with Margo the Marmite provider so I didn't want to risk not being able to do that. And I'm so delighted I went to meet Margo, a six degrees of separation meeting where we talked of people and places we both knew well. I'd had my home fix with a lovely like minded, adventurous, creative kiwi woman of around my age. Or so I thought. 

Enter fix number 2. There's an Irish bar here, The Celt, and a hot day meant a cold beer and cider were required. Imagine our surprise when a table full of young folks Jules immediately picked as squaddies (soldiers) and I picked as local to Aotearoa. The barman who already knows our name, put on some New Zealand classics like Pokarekare Ana and Nga iwi e, and then we were all one whanau enjoying singing and getting to know each other. It seems soldiers from New Caledonia, Tahiti and surrounding islands come here quite often. Mostly French speaking of course but still knowing these classics. 

I had the best day and had a huge smile on my face as we wandered home for dinner. Such a gift.

He aha te mea nui o te ao

What is the most important thing in the world?

He tangata, he tangata, he tangata

It is the people, it is the people, it is the people

Māori Proverb

Gotta pinch yourself....

As one of my lovely friends said after seeing one of my Facebook posts. Yes, there are days, like today, when that is indeed true. Today I got to watch le Tour de France leave from Carcassonne, 5 minutes walk from our place up by La Cite. I went to the start line and engaged with the caravan, seeing all the trucks, busses and logistic involved with this massive event then up to wait for the stars. On the side of the road, with Jules who's not keen on cycling as  a sport. In 40 degree heat. How exciting when the riders come past. We needed an ice cream to cool down after all the excitement and I suspect Jules has changed his view of le tour. 

A week in and Carcassonne is the gift that keeps on giving, except for the Maire and the elusive permissions to get our roof repaired. It's lovely and hot here and our home is cooled by the ceiling fans we had fitted. Lots of cleaning to be done and things to finish over time. What a difference clean windows make and the steam mop for the floors arrived this morning. There's a great Leclerc supermarket and other shops a 10 minute bus ride away. The best shop find is JYSK, a Danish version of IKEA with better quality furniture. We bought a wardrobe with drawers and shelves as well as hang space to tide us over until our proper wardrobe is ready. Dependent on permissions to get the roof replaced. 

It was a surprise the roof needed to be replaced. Everything has been delayed really as we were originally starting on the top floor and working our way down. Best laid plans didn't survive contact. Oh well, on the upside we'll have a new roof, fully insulated without head height sacrifices. The beams look amazing cleaned up and the lovely wide oak planks of the floor will be restored to their former glory. Including removing the white paint on part of it. The good thing is we're here and able to do bits and pieces while being builder labourers. 

The courtyard is the next job. A morning job because its too hot out there in afternoon. There's a planter box to dig out, getting rid of a vine that seems to come from the neighbours place, some rocks, building detritus and an ants nest. There's a pile of now dried plant matter from the planter box and other places to bag and add to the green bin outside. The big building things will need a van. I strung up a clothes line, very efficient in the heat. The planter box will become a seat with a wooden slat top and cushions with a space in the middle for a grapevine. We need some shade so we'll make an overhead trellis for the vine. Shade in summer, cut back for winter. Grapes seem to grow really well here in wine country so it should work well. 

And wine country it is. Three ten litre boxes of the very best rose, chardonnay and merlot currently in our utility room. Andrea took us to a local vineyard shop and we bought the wine after a tasting. I'm decanting the white and rose into bottles for the fridge. The very best wines for less that four euros a bottle. I love the attitude to wine here. It's plentiful and inexpensive, even in cafes, and the best quality. There's a wine shop next door for special occasions too. 

Today Jules has gone on a tour covering the WWII history of the area while I'm having a much needed home day. Later today I'm meeting a lady from NZ who has a 500g jar of New Zealand marmite for me. Seems someone brought too many jars for her to use and I get to benefit. I'm almost out so it's timely. People we've met here are friendly and welcoming. Cyril the owner of the Tabak and boulangère who puts up with my poor French on the baguette run each morning; the neighbours who all have a bonjour and smile when they see us; the people in the local cafes who know now we're regulars; the people I bought our new giant fridge and Smeg stove from; the people who are in the English speakers of Carcassonne Facebook group, French, American, English and other nationalities, meeting weekly for a chat; and of course our lovely builder Andrea and the folks she brings in to help with making this house our home. 

All in all an excellent move for us, the last for a while I hope. 

The remaining 'to unpack' pile awaiting rooms to be finished

Morning view with a lovely breeze

Happy campers wandering back from an ice cream trip

It's been 22 years Tour de France, you're worth the wait

Under starters orders 

And past they go, chatting and relaxed in 40 degree heat

Even managed to catch Tade and friends

Yes!

Update: Jules passport arrived this morning with the fresh, ink still wet visa. There's been a bit of angst and 'what's plan B?" this week so now that's all put to rest and plan A is all go. Delighted I am, I had visions of me setting up the house on my own. So 8 more sleeps, more packing, cleaning and throwing out stuff to go. Using the food in our store cupboard is a mission. Sweet potato chilli used tomatoes, beans and sweet potatoes. The modified margaritas saw the tequila, Aperol and limes finished. Well someone  had to do it. Seriously, the alcohol in our cupboard has to go so Saturday is a great day to take  care of that lol. Plus I've got people coming to see the car tomorrow, fingers crossed one of them will drive it home to their place. 

The living, dining and kitchen fans have arrived - Sitting on the newly laid travertine tiles. 

Only 11 more sleeps

Eeek 11 more sleeps until I wave goodbye England and say bonjour France. So it's sorting and throwing; trips to charity shops; Vinted, Facebook Marketplace and EBay; cleaning and getting the flat ready for the next people; freaking out at 3am thinking I've forgotten to do something; packing boxes and suitcases and plastic boxes with the precious stuff; preparing all the documents needed to get our things through French customs; and dealing with the moving company who seem a little confused about what's needed. 

I'd hoped writing it down might be cathartic, nope! I know from past experience about those last bits and pieces to take care of. At least this time it's a truck arriving at a similar time to us, not a long wait after a long sea journey. And a flight. A final one for a while. 

I've been back to Carcassonne, on my own this time as Jules still doesn't have his passport with the French visa back. It was lovely seeing the floors done in the three level 1 bedrooms and having the fans fitted while I was there. Three rooms done, except for a replacement window and shutters ordered for one. The fans look great and best of all are big enough to work well with the bedrooms' high ceilings. I've ordered three more for the living, dining and kitchen. The new floors match well with the existing old tiles in the bathroom, toilet and hallway. The garish dark blue and yellow tiles in the bathroom? Well I guess I'm now at the place where they need to go. Much to the delight of everyone else involved lol!

It's a bit exciting really seeing things coming together, spaces finished and almost finished. Like the living and dining room. The ceiling and three sides are done, just the troublesome wall shared with the kitchen and needing decisions to go. My job this trip was to make the needed decisions; do the final two coats on the completed walls and ceiling, Monday and Tuesday's job; choose and collect the floor tiles for the ground floor; finish getting rid of the old plinth tiles; give the place a general tidy and clean where I could; and get stuff organised for when we arrive, like the internet. I managed to buy a big fridge freezer, delivery arranged for when we get there, and choose some other bits we'll need to get set up. 

Thursday was an adventure with Andrea, heading to Bezier for travertine tiles and to scope out the best shop, Leroy Merlin. It was a lovely hot day, one where an outside lunch was called for. Leroy Merlin has so many of the things we'll need as we progress with the attic renovations, including the best bathroom stuff and the lights I'd been looking at online. The tile place, wow! A yard full of crates of beautiful, natural travertine stone tiles. The tiles were chosen and loaded into Andrea's van, well half of them as they were really heavy.

When we got to the house later in the afternoon, Andrea and I unloaded the tiles and stacked them in the living room. A very hot and dusty job needing a quiet beer in the back courtyard when done. The lovely man at the Tabac across the road, the place I buy the morning baguette and cold beer, watched on as these two strong and very dusty women carted the tiles inside 2 and 3 at a time. I was  the 2 at a time person, they were heavy! I suspect we are the source of much amusement in the neighbourhood. A very local neighbourhood where people know each other and are pleased we're coming to live full time. There's so many AirBnbs and holiday lets in the area, typical given the number of tourists who visit each year, so the locals are really pleased we're not. And that we attempt to speak in French whenever we can. 

My time in Carcassonne came to an end far too quickly and I was tempted to stay a few more days. With Dan the tiler starting on the ground floor tiling first thing Monday I suspect I'd have been in the way rather than helpful. I've just had a call from Dan and the first part of the tiling is done, ready for our furniture in 11 days. The kitchen will be done between taking the old kitchen out and fitting the new one. A job for later. 

Front bedroom

Needed this after a full day of painting

Finished floor

The chosen tiles

Travertine for miles

On the way to the airport bus

Visa

My passport is back, complete with a visa for a year. The process was interesting, easier and quicker than my UK visa. Mine came back in two weeks and one day; Jules had to get a new passport so he could reapply. Seems like a small tear on the ID page is not accepted. Take two as he reapplies after getting the new passport in record time, more printing and photocopies, and a new appointment this week. It should work this time, hopefully as quickly as mine did. We  have 90 days in every 180 free travel to France and while we have days left, we need this longer solution to live there. 

The house is coming along nicely. Andrea and I had our usual long chat catching up and planning next steps. The fans for the bedrooms are hopefully being delivered today and the ceiling in the living room is in progress. The painting in the bedrooms is done and the tiles laid this week so there should be progress photos to share at the end of the week. I'm not sure if I wrote about my toothache experience in Abu Dhabi and the temporary solution which has now become an extraction after throwing a bit of cash at it with various dentists. Today's not so pleasant job. 

We're getting new neighbours here and they've been renovating for quite a few months now. Their place is looking amazing and we had the tour today. I had kitchen and wardrobe envy. The wardrobe layout is perfect so I now have pics to inspire Andrea with. Best of all they're unpacking stuff and that means bubble wrap and large strong plastic bags and bits so I'm helping them by taking some for our use. Good recycling practice. We have some boxes with more to come from them in the next week or so. Our movers arrive on Sunday 28 June and there's a bit to do before then. Moving is a great idea, until the reality hits. Stuff to clear out; stuff to keep and pack; stuff to give to charity and friends; stuff to sell; and worst of all, stuff to clean. I'm a bit fussy about the final clean so I've already started doing the things I can, procrastinating here as I do. 

Beautiful poppys on display at our local park

Progress!

We've had another trip over to Carcassonne, a longer one this time to get the painting done on the second floor. It's looking good, and the floor tiles previously chosen have been replaced with more suitable ones. They were cheaper too, photo below, and should be laid in the next couple of weeks. It was so exciting when they arrived  and we could see them in the bedroom, perfect choice. We got one room completely done and another half done so plenty of painting to still  be done. I really enjoy painting, up on the small scaffold Andrea supplied painting the ceilings and high bits on the walls. So satisfying to see this the first bit of finishing completed. 

The weather was lovely and we got to spend some time enjoying the local cafes for a vino after a days work. The places we go frequently, like the tavern in La Cite, are getting to know us and we're greeted like friends. The wine is lovely, inexpensive and bought out in carafes. Andrea invited us to Marseillette for a BBQ and it was great to revisit the countryside again. We'd looked at houses there on our first buying visit. A fun night with yummy food and the best local chardonnay from a 10L box. I've ordered one of course. 

We took a local bus to a big supermarket and bought an air frier and some other kitchen stuff so we can stay at the house next trip. We also got some nice linen and towels half price at Monoprix in the Bastide. A great store with some lovely home wares. Feels good to be gathering pieces to use before all our stuff gets moved over. That's planned for 28-29 June, all going well. 

By then the living area and three beds will be ready for furniture and the roof should be replaced. Once we move we'll decide on the kitchen. It's currently useable but not for much longer. I'm planning a trip over in a couple of weeks, once I get my passport back with it's new visa. Jules' visa will take longer, a new passport needed to progress his. So it's all go with a house to pack up and clean, stuff to sort through, things to discard and a few things to sell. A new start without old baggage. 

I'm really looking forward to being there and out exploring the local environs. There's so much to see not too far away; Cathar castles, Narbonne beach, quaint villages, the Black Mountains where there are bears, and historic places like Arles with it's Roman history on show. Plus we can go anywhere in Europe so easily, just need a car really. A job for another day. 

If this works, it's the first room painted

Spring view across the River Aude

A much needed end of the day vino

The late afternoon view from Andrea's terrace

Bedroom tiles

Home(s)

Sometimes I feel a bit like Dorothy; 'there's no place like home Toto'. Only which home? In a nutshell, Aotearoa/New Zealand is my turangawaewae, my place to stand, with multiple generations of ancestry, history, current family and the country of my passport. Scotland is my ancestral home going way back forever, and it feels like home when I'm there; highland Scot from my mothers side and lowland Scot from my fathers side. England is where I live now, France is the next stop. In between there's been homes in Qatar, the UAE, the Cayman Islands and Australia. Home is made where ever I go, where I lay my carpets and welcome friends and family. 

Oh my what a long time to be away from home this time. Five weeks in Abu Dhabi working then the five seeing family and friends down under. Nine flights; lots of time in airports waiting; angst over how and whether I'd get home; a very helpful travel agent, Sam from The Flight Centre in Indooroopilly Shopping Centre; quick decisions; and a good, if expensive, outcome. It was the long way home to England via KL for a very long wait in the airport, then Muscat, Oman overnight and finally with a whole row of seats to myself, and amusing companions in the seat in front of me, home. Home to Jules waiting at the airport; home to our lovely apartment in the small village; home to my own bed and kitchen and the couch. For a wee lie down, much needed I must say! 

I was so pleased to be home; while missing my loved ones down under. A tricky space to negotiate. 

Then just because I hadn't spent enough time on the move, we flew to Carcassonne 5 sleeps later to celebrate our second wedding anniversary with an amazing dinner up at La Cite. And to spend the week working on the house, home number two at the moment. We have the best builder, Andrea, and she's done an amazing job of getting things done while I've been away. Most of the beams are stripped back to the original wood and treated; walls and ceilings are lined where needed and the new cables to rewire the place run with Pete the electrician's help. Lots of progress, and lots for a couple of unskilled laborers to do. Like stripping the rest of the wallpaper. 

The stairwell had heavy fiberglass reinforced wall paper with polystyrene backing in places. It no longer has that, stripped back to bare walls through a few generations of wallpaper underneath using brute force while trying not to fall down the stairs in the process. Very satisfying to see the pile of paper and rubbish on the lounge floor when we'd done. Next job was the final second floor bedroom, started on our last visit. We made quick work of that so on to the bathroom and loo. And voila, the whole second floor is wallpaper free. Sounds easier than it was, two middle aged folks up ladders precariously perching with a steamer and scrapper and sponge worrying away every scrap of every generation of wallpaper. Some nice patterns underneath really. 

The first floor is not far off being finished. I went and chose some tiles for the floor, traditional patterned ceramic tiles matching the original plain brown hallway tiles. The tiler has been booked, the tiles quoted at the local tile shop.  Jules and I will visit as soon as the walls are plastered and get the paint brushes out. Then that floor is livable so we can finally stay in the house rather than the useful AirBnB across the road. The living room and kitchen tiles are chosen too, although this is a work in progress. There's a bit to do yet on the ground floor. And let's not talk about the attic suite and the roof, sigh. 

Okay let's, the roofer has been engaged and he'll take care of all things roof including permissions and scaffolding. Once we have a shiny new roof aligned with the requirements of the mediaeval neighborhood, work on the attic can continue. And we can go back to the bathroom shop and order the new shower and vanity. Lovely to have the best shop with tiles, bathrooms and other bits nearby. Funny conversations as both parties negotiate English and French to make meaning and decisions, very patient staff! 

We managed to strip the wallpaper from the kitchen, utility room and most of the living room too. The ground floor is really taking shape with the false ceilings hiding the beams gone for good, beams exposed and treated, rewiring taking shape, and decisions made about the fate of the current kitchen. It was an exhausting week ending with a very French long lunch where I got to enjoy French onion soup, and the best apple dessert. My French is coming along, I can now order food confidently and make out some of the conversation using key words and context. The school across the road is a bilingual junior school so I'm hoping to volunteer there to improve to kids level language. 

We reluctantly caught the Saturday flight home, a longer journey than usual because of tube track closures. It was nice to be home, back cooking and getting things washed and put away. It's still chilly here with the promise of spring seen in the wild flowers on the roadside and the start of daylight saving. Time for a couple of couch days then it's back to getting what's needed done. There was a contract in Abu Dhabi for April but that's gone quiet for now, understandably. I'm waiting for my refund from Etihad for the Sydney AD leg of my journey home. A flight I didn't fancy waiting for after so many changes.

Amazing views flying over safer parts of the Middle East, across Saudi and up the Gulf of Suez to the Mediterranean passing over Alexandria

Then over the Swiss Alps impressive with lots of snow

Carcassonne from Pont Vieux

The stairs ready for repairs, plaster and paint

And the wallpaper and rubbish from the stairwell

The attic bathroom stripped out and ready to finish once the roof is done. The floors are original, beautiful oak planks to restore and the Velux will be replaced so there's plenty of light.

The view from our bedroom window, a short wander to the castle, La Cite Carcassonne