Renovating fun

I mentioned in the last post we're in the process of renovating. The second floor is almost done, just the last of the plastering and painting, and the living/dining room is liveable with three quarters of the sides and the flooring done. The beautiful travertine floor tiles, heading into the kitchen yet to be tiled. A job for when the kitchen is done. The Smeg stove is in the shop waiting to be picked up and the kitchen is chosen, just needs a trip to the nearest IKEA to finalise the order and get the extra bits a kitchen needs apart from cabinets. 

The kitchen here is really big with a utility room/butlers pantry out the back. It's just in a bit of a state at the moment and will get worse once it's gutted for tiling, finishing the electrics, lining the walls and ceiling to cover the bits kitchens need behind the scenes. Then it's the fourth wall of the living room tying up all the loose ends of both rooms. My latest labour of love is the stairwell to the second floor. It all started as a cleaning off left over remnants from the old wall paper and loose plaster. Now it's a restoring one of the walls back to stone, accidentally when I got carried away removing damaged plaster and saw the stones underneath. 

A few hours of dusty work has exposed an interesting wall with a patch of damp at the bottom meaning the wall needs to breathe. And that means I get the exposed stone wall I've been seeking. Bonus! There's also a window shape we can see in the courtyard and this has turned out to be a window in the stairwell, possibly blocked when the current stairs were built. It has a lovely wooden lintel and large stones either side so worth clearing for display. I'm not sure how it will all look once it's done but I'm excited about the possibilities, if not the dust and rubble that's part of the process. Plus I don't have to dig around  other places to do the same, like the upstairs study which was my first choice. 

The roof works needed to complete the third level are still in the permission stage, a trick for the unwary when buying in an historical area where change must fit into the optics of the place. All good, it will come and we'll have a new, old looking roof so we can begin the work up there. A master suite with bedroom, living space for my reading chair, a huge ensuite, built in wardrobe and study. And the best view from the windows over looking La Cite. 

Our new home has an interesting history. Jules did some research and found out it was farriers from the 1890s up until the1920s when it started to take it's current shape as a home. This was also an area of cloth production and dyeing way back, on the barbacane walls just outside the castle and near the river. I suspect our location means it was also once a place where weavers worked to make the famous cloth from this area. 

Today was a productive wander to the market. The stone fruit here is delicious and it must be coming towards the end of the season now so I'm stocking up for winter puddings. We always walk different ways home and today wandered along the other bank of the river and over Pont Neuf to home. It's not so hot today so a pleasant wander. 

It's been a lovely social week with Andrea working here and a trip with her to Caunes-Minervois for a soiree, an afternoon of socialising and meeting new folks. Tonight it's dinner out at Adelaide, one of our favourite castle restaurants. It still feels a bit like I'm on holiday, guess that's what retirement is. Bonus being in this loveliest of places. 

Looking across to Pont Vieux

La Cite from Pont Neuf

Work in progress

The unexpected window in the wall

It's been hot

And busy with our first visitors. Hosting Ryan, Jules' 16 year old son and his girlfriend for a few school holiday weeks. We've done a bit getting out and about when the teenagers finally made an appearance. One largely disinterested and not really open to lots of experiences. Never mind, this retired teacher put on her best bossiness and got her off her phone and things moving when I could. It never fails to amaze me how engrossed in their phones kids of this age are, not interested in what's going on around them more interested in what's happening elsewhere in internet land on those post and view video sites manipulated by the billionaire class (the names of whom I will not mention). 

There's so much to see and do around here, especially at this time of year with festivals, concerts and summer holiday activities. We got some good time out at the lake enjoying the cool water on a hot day and the bonus that the 2B bus heads out there several times a day. There's a couple of activity parks of the park, an inflatable park where kids can go crazy, the ropes course and all number of paddleboards and boats for hire. Definitely a place to spend more time at as we head to less scorching weather.

There have been a few fires in our vicinity although not as many as a bit north of here. There have been some very smoky, hazy days with the orange sun peeking through the murk. Watching the helicopters dipping their giant water bags into the river to fill was sobering, knowing the fire was close enough to have been worrying. Having grown up in a forest where there were frequent summer fires means I'm very respectful of the damage fires can do. Some folks didn't evacuate, some died because they didn't move fast enough. Standing on our house roof with wet sacks extinguishing the sparks as they landed is not the best of my childhood memories. That and the sound of the pump while the men battled the fire on the hill across the road. 

But I digress, it's hot here. Delightfully hot and sunny. One of my first purchases for the house was ceiling fans. Others wondered why, the electrician questioned the need but shrugged and fitted them anyway. Fans are essential to keep the house cool, coupled with making the most of the cooler morning through breezes and keeping the shutters on the sunny sides shut. We don't have curtains and I'm not in a hurry to get them. The shutters provide privacy and darkness too. The novelty of pushing open the shutters in the morning to let the sun stream through hasn't left me. It feels like I'm in a movie and I have to pinch myself some times. 

So much of our life here is like a dream, like being on a permanent holiday. Getting up when the sun peeks through the shutters; sourcing a baguette and croissants from the Tabac across the road with a cheery bonjour to our neighbours and Cyril the owner. He pretty well knows our order by now and asking for different things is a great way to practice our French. I suspect by now all our neighbours know who we are, especially that we're here permanently and renovating this lovely old lady we live in. 

We've started our wider exploring with a trip to Arles, a place with some lovely memories of previous visits. An interesting place with the Rhone running through; visible and restored Roman history; and typically French culture, cuisine and wine. Here's a selection of pics from my phone, the phone with a broken lens restricting what I can take. Note to self, bring the big camera next time. 

Les Alyscamps - The street of the dead

Crypt - Much cooler under the streets

Arles Arena - The pilgrims sign at the top of the tower stairs

From the tower across the arena and walls

Amazing blue of  the sky above the arena

Sunset on the Rhone

Change of scene

I've been plagued for years by sore tummys, the ones that keep you awake at night and mean an early wake up. Ones where restrictive diets help, no gluten or wheat or seeds or meat, but don't completely fix the issues. Moving to the UK made it worse, moving to France has more than made it better. I've noticed during my trips here buying then renovating the house that the sore tummys go away, even eating baguettes and croissants with loads of butter and confiture. I was hoping this would continue living here and a little over two weeks in it has. 

I've been having the best sleeps in the heat under the ceiling fan, no sore tummy to wake me or keep me awake. Pizza for dinner last night, beer and wine, and baguette for breakfast. No issues. I've lost a bit of weight too, fitting into my tight shorts comfortably. The only thing I'm doing differently is eating cleaner food, local food without the stuff mass produced food has in it. Bread that's not edible the next day, not that there's any left usually, fresh local fruit and vege from the markets - not perfect fruit, naturally ripened fruit that tastes like it was just picked, sun kissed. The fruit from my childhood. 

Fruit I come home and cook and freeze for winter breakfasts. The wine is also cleaner, from a local vineyard traditionally produced and bought in 10 litre boxes for under 30 euros a box. Our home is also quiet, thick stone walls and mostly double glazed, on a quiet street. A cool sanctuary in the heat. Best of all is the relaxed lifestyle. The greetings from the neighbours on the morning baguette run; the laughs with the folks at our local cafes and bars; the interesting places to explore and wander; the busses going to places we want to; and the helpful people we find when we need something. Like the giant fridge/freezer I managed to buy and get delivered with quite the language barrier and the Smeg stove we bought last visit to the same shop. Both on sale with the best discounts. 

So all in all, despite the ongoing issues with getting the roof replaced, the best change of scene. 

A PS for the last post

Well, the tour Jules was on was amazing. Such history here, much of which I've read about over the years being a huge fan of Kate Mosse's books set in the area and beyond. I've visited most places in the books too, watching them come to life. 

I digress. The reason I didn't go on the local tour is I'd hurt my back and walking was for any distance was a challenge. Later that day I had to go to Place Carnot to meet with Margo the Marmite provider so I didn't want to risk not being able to do that. And I'm so delighted I went to meet Margo, a six degrees of separation meeting where we talked of people and places we both knew well. I'd had my home fix with a lovely like minded, adventurous, creative kiwi woman of around my age. Or so I thought. 

Enter fix number 2. There's an Irish bar here, The Celt, and a hot day meant a cold beer and cider were required. Imagine our surprise when a table full of young folks Jules immediately picked as squaddies (soldiers) and I picked as local to Aotearoa. The barman who already knows our name, put on some New Zealand classics like Pokarekare Ana and Nga iwi e, and then we were all one whanau enjoying singing and getting to know each other. It seems soldiers from New Caledonia, Tahiti and surrounding islands come here quite often. Mostly French speaking of course but still knowing these classics. 

I had the best day and had a huge smile on my face as we wandered home for dinner. Such a gift.

He aha te mea nui o te ao

What is the most important thing in the world?

He tangata, he tangata, he tangata

It is the people, it is the people, it is the people

Māori Proverb

Gotta pinch yourself....

As one of my lovely friends said after seeing one of my Facebook posts. Yes, there are days, like today, when that is indeed true. Today I got to watch le Tour de France leave from Carcassonne, 5 minutes walk from our place up by La Cite. I went to the start line and engaged with the caravan, seeing all the trucks, busses and logistic involved with this massive event then up to wait for the stars. On the side of the road, with Jules who's not keen on cycling as  a sport. In 40 degree heat. How exciting when the riders come past. We needed an ice cream to cool down after all the excitement and I suspect Jules has changed his view of le tour. 

A week in and Carcassonne is the gift that keeps on giving, except for the Maire and the elusive permissions to get our roof repaired. It's lovely and hot here and our home is cooled by the ceiling fans we had fitted. Lots of cleaning to be done and things to finish over time. What a difference clean windows make and the steam mop for the floors arrived this morning. There's a great Leclerc supermarket and other shops a 10 minute bus ride away. The best shop find is JYSK, a Danish version of IKEA with better quality furniture. We bought a wardrobe with drawers and shelves as well as hang space to tide us over until our proper wardrobe is ready. Dependent on permissions to get the roof replaced. 

It was a surprise the roof needed to be replaced. Everything has been delayed really as we were originally starting on the top floor and working our way down. Best laid plans didn't survive contact. Oh well, on the upside we'll have a new roof, fully insulated without head height sacrifices. The beams look amazing cleaned up and the lovely wide oak planks of the floor will be restored to their former glory. Including removing the white paint on part of it. The good thing is we're here and able to do bits and pieces while being builder labourers. 

The courtyard is the next job. A morning job because its too hot out there in afternoon. There's a planter box to dig out, getting rid of a vine that seems to come from the neighbours place, some rocks, building detritus and an ants nest. There's a pile of now dried plant matter from the planter box and other places to bag and add to the green bin outside. The big building things will need a van. I strung up a clothes line, very efficient in the heat. The planter box will become a seat with a wooden slat top and cushions with a space in the middle for a grapevine. We need some shade so we'll make an overhead trellis for the vine. Shade in summer, cut back for winter. Grapes seem to grow really well here in wine country so it should work well. 

And wine country it is. Three ten litre boxes of the very best rose, chardonnay and merlot currently in our utility room. Andrea took us to a local vineyard shop and we bought the wine after a tasting. I'm decanting the white and rose into bottles for the fridge. The very best wines for less that four euros a bottle. I love the attitude to wine here. It's plentiful and inexpensive, even in cafes, and the best quality. There's a wine shop next door for special occasions too. 

Today Jules has gone on a tour covering the WWII history of the area while I'm having a much needed home day. Later today I'm meeting a lady from NZ who has a 500g jar of New Zealand marmite for me. Seems someone brought too many jars for her to use and I get to benefit. I'm almost out so it's timely. People we've met here are friendly and welcoming. Cyril the owner of the Tabak and boulangère who puts up with my poor French on the baguette run each morning; the neighbours who all have a bonjour and smile when they see us; the people in the local cafes who know now we're regulars; the people I bought our new giant fridge and Smeg stove from; the people who are in the English speakers of Carcassonne Facebook group, French, American, English and other nationalities, meeting weekly for a chat; and of course our lovely builder Andrea and the folks she brings in to help with making this house our home. 

All in all an excellent move for us, the last for a while I hope. 

The remaining 'to unpack' pile awaiting rooms to be finished

Morning view with a lovely breeze

Happy campers wandering back from an ice cream trip

It's been 22 years Tour de France, you're worth the wait

Under starters orders 

And past they go, chatting and relaxed in 40 degree heat

Even managed to catch Tade and friends

Yes!

Update: Jules passport arrived this morning with the fresh, ink still wet visa. There's been a bit of angst and 'what's plan B?" this week so now that's all put to rest and plan A is all go. Delighted I am, I had visions of me setting up the house on my own. So 8 more sleeps, more packing, cleaning and throwing out stuff to go. Using the food in our store cupboard is a mission. Sweet potato chilli used tomatoes, beans and sweet potatoes. The modified margaritas saw the tequila, Aperol and limes finished. Well someone  had to do it. Seriously, the alcohol in our cupboard has to go so Saturday is a great day to take  care of that lol. Plus I've got people coming to see the car tomorrow, fingers crossed one of them will drive it home to their place. 

The living, dining and kitchen fans have arrived - Sitting on the newly laid travertine tiles. 

Only 11 more sleeps

Eeek 11 more sleeps until I wave goodbye England and say bonjour France. So it's sorting and throwing; trips to charity shops; Vinted, Facebook Marketplace and EBay; cleaning and getting the flat ready for the next people; freaking out at 3am thinking I've forgotten to do something; packing boxes and suitcases and plastic boxes with the precious stuff; preparing all the documents needed to get our things through French customs; and dealing with the moving company who seem a little confused about what's needed. 

I'd hoped writing it down might be cathartic, nope! I know from past experience about those last bits and pieces to take care of. At least this time it's a truck arriving at a similar time to us, not a long wait after a long sea journey. And a flight. A final one for a while. 

I've been back to Carcassonne, on my own this time as Jules still doesn't have his passport with the French visa back. It was lovely seeing the floors done in the three level 1 bedrooms and having the fans fitted while I was there. Three rooms done, except for a replacement window and shutters ordered for one. The fans look great and best of all are big enough to work well with the bedrooms' high ceilings. I've ordered three more for the living, dining and kitchen. The new floors match well with the existing old tiles in the bathroom, toilet and hallway. The garish dark blue and yellow tiles in the bathroom? Well I guess I'm now at the place where they need to go. Much to the delight of everyone else involved lol!

It's a bit exciting really seeing things coming together, spaces finished and almost finished. Like the living and dining room. The ceiling and three sides are done, just the troublesome wall shared with the kitchen and needing decisions to go. My job this trip was to make the needed decisions; do the final two coats on the completed walls and ceiling, Monday and Tuesday's job; choose and collect the floor tiles for the ground floor; finish getting rid of the old plinth tiles; give the place a general tidy and clean where I could; and get stuff organised for when we arrive, like the internet. I managed to buy a big fridge freezer, delivery arranged for when we get there, and choose some other bits we'll need to get set up. 

Thursday was an adventure with Andrea, heading to Bezier for travertine tiles and to scope out the best shop, Leroy Merlin. It was a lovely hot day, one where an outside lunch was called for. Leroy Merlin has so many of the things we'll need as we progress with the attic renovations, including the best bathroom stuff and the lights I'd been looking at online. The tile place, wow! A yard full of crates of beautiful, natural travertine stone tiles. The tiles were chosen and loaded into Andrea's van, well half of them as they were really heavy.

When we got to the house later in the afternoon, Andrea and I unloaded the tiles and stacked them in the living room. A very hot and dusty job needing a quiet beer in the back courtyard when done. The lovely man at the Tabac across the road, the place I buy the morning baguette and cold beer, watched on as these two strong and very dusty women carted the tiles inside 2 and 3 at a time. I was  the 2 at a time person, they were heavy! I suspect we are the source of much amusement in the neighbourhood. A very local neighbourhood where people know each other and are pleased we're coming to live full time. There's so many AirBnbs and holiday lets in the area, typical given the number of tourists who visit each year, so the locals are really pleased we're not. And that we attempt to speak in French whenever we can. 

My time in Carcassonne came to an end far too quickly and I was tempted to stay a few more days. With Dan the tiler starting on the ground floor tiling first thing Monday I suspect I'd have been in the way rather than helpful. I've just had a call from Dan and the first part of the tiling is done, ready for our furniture in 11 days. The kitchen will be done between taking the old kitchen out and fitting the new one. A job for later. 

Front bedroom

Needed this after a full day of painting

Finished floor

The chosen tiles

Travertine for miles

On the way to the airport bus