Cruising Part 3

I was reflecting on my trip and realized I missed a piece about connection. At the hotel in Vancouver there was a roof terrace and we decided to end a satisfying day with a few drinks and snacks from the 7Eleven there. Enjoying the late afternoon sun. There were other folks there, two people who turned out to be New Zealanders. Jokingly I asked if they knew Diana when they said they were from Wellington. And yes they did, very well as she was a relative. Such a small world. I ended up having a couple of messages with her on Messenger and we're hoping to connect for a proper chat. Diana was one of my Wellington crew, the crew I had the best time with. There are pics here from our 2014-15 adventures. 

Juneau. We had planned a lighter day here and a wander around town. The first stop was the Mendenhall Glacier. Being from New Zealand it takes a lot of glacier to impress me and I found this one a little underwhelming. It would have been lovely to have gotten closer. The wander along the track was refreshing, chatting with Mesh and enjoying the waterfalls. On the way back to town we had the best treat, a salmon bake - lots of lovely salmon. The salmon was very red and a little overcooked for me so I asked for an under done one for seconds. The lady slaving over the hot fire was delighted someone else liked salmon cooked less and we had a chat as she prepared the best salmon for me. The area around the Gold Creek Salmon Bake was lovely too as we wandered along Gold Creek to the waterfall and toasted marshmallows over the fire. 

Back on the bus feeling very full, we headed to the Red Dog Saloon, an iconic venue in Juneau where duck farts were the order of the day. Duck farts are quite delicious shots layered Kahlua, Baileys and whiskey. The waitress recommended we had a go at the reindeer farts too, similar but with a minty addition. The bar was really busy with lots of historical memorabilia on the walls, hanging from the rafters, on the floor and everywhere with a flat surface. The bear hanging behind us looked fierce, sad to see his pelt stretched out on a wall. Jane booked us a whale watching trip with a local tour operator. I was feeling sleepy so not too enthused, that and I'd seen heaps of whales from my Gold Coast balcony. I was so pleased she booked it as we got to see a very special event, whales bubble net fishing. 

Bubble net fishing is unique to Alaska. It's amazing to watch a pod of humpback whales lay their bubble net then leap up, mouths open, to catch the fish they captured in their net. The seagulls and seals are there for their share, dodging the wide open mouths. I got some amazing pics and I'm in the process of editing these so here's a video with an explanation instead. Much better represents this amazing spectacle. The pod we followed had 18-20 whales as was larger than the whale boat crew had seen in a while. Lovely to see the crew so engaged and enjoying this as much as we were.  

We headed back to the boat big smiles on our faces. I was looking forward to checking my photos on a big screen and regretted not having my iMac at home to process these. The evening promised more entertainment, food and cocktails. It's a tough life this cruising! Next stop Skagway. 

Playing with filters - Humpback fountain

Waterfall watching

Mildenhall Glacier

Our very large and fierce bear companion 

Duck Farts at the Red Dog

Cruising Part 2

After the fine dining the night before the buffet didn't quite do it for me. Being a pescatarian, a vegetarian who eats seafood, the range was a bit limited. Surprising given we were in the land of salmon, large crabs and other seafood delights. I managed quite well in the end, standing in line, chatting with folks and finishing off with the best sorbet. The evening entertainment was great with a cabaret style show followed by drinks at the front of the ship in the Skyline bar. 

Icy Strait Point and a small fishing town called Hoonah was the next stop and again it was heaving with people. We queued for the gondola and went up a small rise. Icy Point's high point was the free internet to make WhatsApp calls, something I couldn't do on the ship. There was also quite good coffee and I enjoyed it on the beach watching out over the water. Hoonah on the other hand was lovely. Hoonah is a largely Tlingit community on Chichagof Island, located in Alaska's panhandle in the southeast region of the state. It is 30 miles west of Juneau, across the Alaskan Inside Passage. Hoonah is a short wander from the commercial busyness of Icy Point and a welcome relief. I wandered there on my own taking pics along the way.

At Icy Point there was great excitement as a humpback breached just offshore and played a while for the audience it attracted. Imagine my joy when another breached near me on my wander to Hoonah, scaring the group of paddlers who had the front row seats. I took lots of pics, not crowded by people, and got to hear the whale song as he leapt about. What a magical spot the canoeists had. I had considered going out with a local guide but decided staying dry and having a wander was a better idea. Bugger! 

I visited some local crafts folks in Hoonah and had a lovely chat about their place and New Zealand and the similarities, right down to some of the art works and media. I explored for a bit chatting with some local fishermen and wandered back to the ship along the coastal path. Apart from the whales and bears, I wanted that iconic shot of a bald eagle flying. I looked up to see one flying towards me and beginning to bank around. The quick shots I took didn't quite work as I'd hoped but I had a second chance as he flew to a nearby tree. I watched him for a while and got some good close shots then off he flew. Bald eagles are really big and my zoom missed his wing tip so the second flight pic wasn't great either. 

Back to the ship and onwards to the next destination. Kiwis are a bit of a tribe when out in the world and the cruise director told us there were 23 of us on board, plus one dancer. Kiwis also know each other from somewhere or are related to/friends of/live in the same town as someones mutual friend. This trip was no exception. I met Wanaka (not his real name) while getting a burger. His wife and Jane went to school together and hadn't seen each other for years. In their party was a former All Blacks coach and NZ hero and his partner a national netball player. The dancer came from Christchurch, my old city, and that was just half the NZ crew. Laughs were had with stories exchanged over cocktails. They loved my bears in the stream video so I shared it. They'd paid a lot for an excursion and hadn't yet seen a bear or eagles. 

We hit the casino at some point, not my thing but I borrowed a fiver off Jane and set about winning around 100USD on the pokies, very helpful to my limited budget. We watched the most amazing sunset from the Skyline bar, the sun not completely setting and providing us with the most colorful sky and shoreline. The pic below is taken after 10pm. Next stop Juneau. I was beginning to enjoy the gentle rocking of the ships as we cruised in calm waters. 

Peaceful coffee on the beach with the best outlook

Paddlers ready for an adventure........

Surprise! Humpback feeding and playing just offshore

The fleet ready to go

Totem at Hoonah 

My eagle friend - Still working on the flight pics

Sunset from the Skyline bar

Cruising Part 1

Summer in England can be a little fickle and this year it has been! Since the lovely days in June following royal exploits, I've had the good fortune to enjoy the Guildford Festival listening to opera on a balcony dated back to the1600s from the cobbled street below; celebrated birthdays, mine and others; wandered canals visiting Norman castle ruins, picking blackberries and enjoying the swans and other wild life; and going on a cruise from Vancouver to Alaska. I was never sure about cruising, and have made comments about my first being when I'm 90 and in need of someone cooking and cleaning for me! I also knew this particular cruise went to places not accessible by road or rail so when Jane asked, I jumped to join.

Jane is the best travel companion and she had two friends with her this trip so I joined them exploring Vancouver and surrounds for a few days before heading to the ship. Roll back a bit to the flight over. Flying from Gatwick direct, I got a window seat for the day time flight. The view was amazing flying over Iceland, Greenland and Canada. I sat glued to the window and took a few pics of the glaciers, snowfields and ice bound seas below. Greenland was white? My seat mates were a father and son from New Zealand, now living in the UK, and they shared how they go to Canada to see their son/brother and to go mountain biking and hiking. The inability to travel lately has meant this is the first time they've gone in 3 years. Much excitement and another separated family story to add to my extensive collection. 

I've added some photos from the plane window below. They are of course not the best pics through a window but  I hope they give some idea of  immensity of the snow and icefields. Vancouver, well I've always found expat Canadians to be the very best of peoples and getting from the airport to the hotel showed me ones at home are too. It was my first time in Canada so I relied on going by train and then wandering with a vague idea of where I needed to be and asking people. Such lovely conversations were had and I found the hotel just when I was ready to expire, it was hot you see and I was dressed for the plane! 

Vancouver, what an interesting place. Jane and friends' hotel was in the central city and, while it was okay, the surrounding streets were not always. I was surprised to see so many homeless people and the open drug use in the streets. People doing meth and other drugs taking up the whole footpath and squabbling amongst themselves. Jane did some research after seeing catatonic people standing bent over and found there was a new drug which makes people into zombies? Not a good scene, and watching the poor ambulance first responders dealing with this was confronting. 

On the plus side, we did an evening ghost tour and learnt about the history of the place. I didn't realize how relatively new Vancouver was as a city, not much older than some NZ cities. Getting to know Mish and Bonnie over a lovely pasta and cocktails was great, welcomed and fitting in with this group who had journeyed up the coast from San Fran to Seattle then bussed across the border. We also took a trip out to the Capilano Suspension Bridge and had a wander through the park there. What a lovely spot in the sunshine. 

I've wandered alone so often I'd forgotten what it's like to have a suitcase minder, where I could wander off for food and loo without having to take my bag. This trip it was a small carry on for me but the others had bigger cases from longer trips to manage. The ghost tour made negotiating the city easier as we went past the key spots on our wanders. The busses and trains also took us where we needed. 

Boarding the cruise ship was easier than boarding a plane so soon we were on board and ready for a cocktail. Apart from the four I boarded with, there were other friends on the boat, ones in for a surprise as my joining them was a well kept secret. Pina coladas all round as we caught up on all the news and enjoyed some food, buffet style with lots of choice. Then we were on the way, pulling out of the harbor along the most scenic waterway. The first evening was getting to know the ship, fine dining and hitting all the bars. Fine dining, imagine not being able to choose which starter you wanted and getting both choices delivered. Made the most of the lovely food slow dining with friends and some fine wine. 

The next day was a sea day and then it was Ketchikan on Revillagigedo Island, a place only accessible by sea, to hunt for bears, salmon and eagles. 100% strike rate as we watched a mum and baby cavorting in a stream chasing the enormous king salmon coming up stream with bald eagles looking on waiting for some left overs. Wow moments after wandering through the forest and seeing bear sign on the sides.
Later we got to see a large male black bear in the creek running through the middle of town. He was testing the water looking for food and had quite an audience. Unfortunately being in town meant he was a risk and the rangers had to chase him back to the wild, and if not, put him down. Sad really as we're in his space.  

For a first shore excursion it was magical, except for the number of people disgorged from the ships in port. People wandering around shopping and eating, meaning this small town was packed and noisy. Cruise ships are such a big boost to the local economy and they had been missed during the stay at home period we've just had so we were very welcome. The driver shared with us how the seasonal labor market worked in these town, students coming to work the season and heading back for university or work as the winter closed in. Not sure I'd like to winter over in the cold and dark although this island didn't always get snow, in part because of it's maritime location. 

Flying over Greenland

Steam clock - Vancouver 

Cruise terminal - all aboard!

Under way!

Cabin buddies 

A rescued bald eagle 

Ketchikan Stream.........

Complete with large bear

Ketchikan village

A right royal time

This week has been one to bottle. Royal Ascot means the royals are out and about and I had two wonderful opportunities to see them, one very much minus the crowds so I got up close. While I'm not really a true blue royal watcher, I chose not to go with the crowds and camp out on the Mall, I do love a bit of royal people watching. Well people watching in general. My lovely friend gave me two opportunities to be front row. The first the Royal Garter Ceremony at Windsor, the second the change over from cars to carriages in The Great Park. 

These were both events where only a few folks get to go, all dressed up (mostly) for the occasions. Hats, bubbles and picnics were the order of both days with people out socializing and enjoying the sunshine. It's been so lovely and warm here, lovely days to venture out without the usual coat. I've even topped up my tan, important for my next adventure as bikinis will be involved. 

Being in the grounds of Windsor Castle is always a highlight for me. We sat on the grass in the sun waiting for the special folks to come down the path to St George's Chapel for the ceremony. There were plenty of other important people wandering about too, including those privileged enough to go to the service in the church. The police and guardsmen were placed along the route, the Household Cavalry band marched its way to the parade ground, and then came the royals. Princes Edward and William were deep in conversation, laughing and enjoying their wander through the people. Then came the King and Camilla, smiling and acknowledging the crowd. It's hard to make it sound special really, the atmosphere was wonderful as the procession was cheered on. 

It was really hot, even for me, so I was pleased to have my hat and some water. The poor guardsmen with their heavy uniforms and bear skin hats didn't fare so well in the heat. One across from us was swaying worryingly, sword raised and the ladies behind him looking concerned. He managed to stay upright, until he didn't! When the royals and others were safely in the chapel we decamped to get a better view of the carriages returning from the church to the cheers of the crowd, the loudest cheer saved for William and Kate.

Heading to The Great Park, behind those big gates and fences, was a treat. This time I had the picnic packed, plus the local royal school  PTA had home made cakes and scones. There were so few people here, a real invite only crowd. The school kids were there in force and many elderly people were enjoying the day out too. Knowing where the change over happens is key and I had a front row spot, chatting to the folks who let me in. Being from New Zealand really helps on occasions like this. The carriages arrived to a murmur of excited anticipation, then the cars arrive. A procession of Rolls Royce full of royals. although not Kate and Will this time. I got some good up close pics as the King changed from the car to the carriage right in front of me. 

After enjoying our picnic, we drove through Ascot and saw the carriages returning minus their royal cargo. Ascot was heaving with people and the outfits and hats were quite beautiful. The shoes, well not sure how I'd last a day in some of them. I did have shoe envy, although I increased my collection by three the previous week just so I had a fancy enough pair for this occasion. Here are some pics from The Great Park day. I was too busy enjoying Windsor to get any good ones there.

Your carriage awaits

Here? Looks comfy!

Sun hats on!

                                    

Off we go!

It's not Ascot without Princess Anne

The drive out - following the car with the police bikes

A day out in Paris

 Wow, just wow! I hear all sorts of things about Paris, mostly not very complimentary, but every time I go there it fills me with joy and delight. Even that time when I got soaked and it was unexpectedly chilly. Or that time I was jammed up against a fence, front row standing, watching the Tour de France riders race past after joining the Tour for a while as it wended its way through the most beautiful countryside. Or the time I got hangry in La Louvre and made my travel companion leave so I could find a baguette and some cheese, about all our budget ran to that trip! Or sitting in the Tuileries watching the world go by after an amazing trip to Musee de O'rsay. Or this trip wandering around the 3rd Arrondissement with my lovely Gold Coast friend Nicole and her daughter.

The arrondissement, called Temple is situated on the right bank of the River Seine. The arrondissement contains the northern, quieter part of the medieval district of Le Marais and is one of the oldest parts of Paris with none of the large boulevards created after the French Revolution. The oldest surviving private house of Paris, built in 1407, is to be found in the 3rd arrondissement, 52 rue de Montmorency. 

The ancient Jewish quarter, the Pletzl which dates from the 13th century, begins in the eastern part of the 3rd arrondissement and extends into the 4th. It is home to the Agoudas Hakehilos synagogue designed by the architect Guimard. Although trendy boutiques are now taking up many of the storefronts, there are still landmark stores selling traditional Jewish foods. And this is where we started our walking, eating and exploring tour. 

First step, find Nicole and Liv. Easier said than done, the detail I didn't take care of was the finer detail of where exactly they were! The train from Lille and negotiating the underground went well. Wandering, asking people, back on the underground, begging for wifi from a café. Resourceful. Not helpful with no internet. Manage to find them I did, at their closest underground station so we wended our way to the 3rd after much laughter and catching up. 

I initially though the tour was a little on the pricey side, an opinion I changed as we wandered, explored the history of this place and enjoyed the varied cuisine. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and entertaining and he took us places we'd never find by ourselves. It was also lovely to talk with folks from all over the world as we wandered. I highly recommend this one, we booked through Get Your Guide here. My favourites were the chocolates and the food in the market. And of course the wine tasting at the end. 

Post tour we wandered to Place de Luxembourg, enjoying a much needed gelato while watching the people go by and the small radio controlled yachts on the pond. A beautiful spot on an increasingly hot day. My companions, one new to Paris, enjoyed spotting the Emily in Paris places as we talked about how amazing the long twilights are at this latitude. You see on the GC, being semi tropical, the door slams shut on the day. Instant night quickly and quite early especially through the winter months. In Paris we were still sunning ourselves near La Louvre at a time when it would be dark on the GC. 

The girls headed off to continue their on-off bus adventures and an evening Seine cruise while I retraced my steps to Gar du Nord. Not too hard really. It was an adventure when I got there, foot sore and needing a sit down with a cold one. Not to be, it was madness! A long wait in a hot station heaving with people and nowhere to sit. Oh well Lille wasn't too far off when I got there. Back to Ypres and a nice cold Kriek was the order of the day. 

Nicole and Liv have a few more days in Paris then head south to Carcassonne and surrounds. They head off to Lake Como and Italy after that, they even get to visit Switzerland a place I've not been as yet. I love Carcassonne, one of the rare places in the world I have a hospital story. A me in the hospital story not me taking someone else! Seems marble staircases are not to be negotiated in socks, even before having a vino. Down I went in a heap with a torn off thumb nail and dented arm bone, all the while trying to convince our hosts I hadn't been drinking. Luckily the lovely French doc and his nurses were more sympathetic to this injured kiwi and much kinder than my family. An Xray and a few sacre blus later I was in a sling, and sent on my way. Seems I have very tough bones, ones that dent not break. Thankfully. 

Not sure when I'll get back to Paris. I'm on a long term promise with miss 12 to take her to Paris. It's been a dream of hers for a while, not quite sure why except knowing it's dangerous talking travel with me without having itchy feet. I have promised and I'd love to share this city with my grandies. Let's hope I get to soon, suspect I'll be back again before then. I'll keep you posted.

Cheese - lots of yummy cheese

Look what's behind me

Gelato in the sun

 

Belgium Part two

In Bruges is a movie set in, well, in Bruges. It was one of the reasons I first wanted to go there, that and the beauty of this place not destroyed by the war raging around it. An untouched ancient canal town with a rich history. Last time I had no spare money so my travel companion and her small child and I just wandered. This time I was determined to do a trip on the canals by boat. The touristy thing to do. We waited in the sun for our boat soaking up the rays while enjoying the bright flowers lining the canal with a back drop of some amazing buildings. I must confess it was lovely to sit down for a bit. We'd just had the loveliest waffles, mine with cherries and chocolate and the boys with the full works, so I was a bit sleepy. 

For centuries the canals of Bruges have linked the city to the sea, a guarantee of wealth and prosperity. International merchants built up Bruges into one of the largest Hanse cities. In the 15th century the city flourished as never before. Large parts of the medieval heritage remained practically intact so UNESCO designated the entire city centre as a World Heritage site. What fun the boat tour was, especially the commentary presented with dry Belgian humour. I've not been one for tours in the past and have realised how valuable they are in understanding the place and the people who live there. They also add value by bringing in tourist dollars, supporting the community and keeping the towns and cities alive. 

Here's some information from the official Bruges site:

Although the Bruges region was already populated in Roman times, the city’s name appears for the first time in the 9th century, probably derived from the Old Germanic word ‘brugj’, which means ‘mooring’. Bruges has always had a special bond with the sea. After all, water played a crucial role in the city’s foundation. It was the place where several streams merged into a single river (the ‘Reie’), which flowed north into the coastal plain. This river was linked to the North Sea through a series of ‘tidal channels’, guaranteeing the city’s future welfare and prosperity.

During the First World War, Zeebrugge became the operational base for the German submarine fleet, coordinated from their headquarters on the Market Square in Bruges. Fortunately, both world wars left the historic city centre virtually unscathed, making Bruges increasingly appealing to visitors and culture-lovers alike. Its beauty and attraction was confirmed in 2000, when UNESCO classified the entire medieval inner city as a world heritage site. 

I was the driver so didn't get to sample the famed Bruges beers, didn't think that one through properly! Back in Ypres it was Kreik beer all round, that delicious cherry brew I've always loved and which holds fond memories of family times in Antwerp. It was a long day of walking and exploring, although we didn't find the horse head fountain. Maps, instructions and directions were to no avail. Next time.

What to do on Thursday? The Cloth Hall museum was the first stop, a disappointing one for me. I'd been there in 2004, quite a while ago really, and remembered it having a display of the Flanders refugees displaced by war. Families moved from their destroyed homes, farms, towns. The victims of war not always acknowledged. While the museum was well done, and of course I had expected it to be updated, it was a quicker visit than expected. Then it was off to Dunkirk for lunch. Not such a highlight with a cold wind off the North Sea so we didn't stay long. I was pleased to be back in our warm apartment with hot chips, tomato sauce and an end of day beer. 

And then there was my Friday treat, a trip to Paris to meet up with Nicole and Olivia friends from the Gold Coast. An entry on it's own. 

Waiting......

........in the sun enjoying the scene

Duck!

Belgium - Part one

It's been a bit busy lately with trips to London to see Kate and her mum and sister over from New Zealand. A lovely reunion of family over a tasty meal and a wander around that city I enjoy so much. I find the trains and Undergound so much easier the more I use them, and the Trainline app helps with tickets and journey maps. Kate and co were heading onwards to Italy, to Venice to celebrate Kate's birthday in style. 

My next trip was to check out an education fair, finding my way in a new part of London. Finding the best coffee, twice, made the day go well! Didn't quite get the footwear right, vanity over practicality, so my back and feet suffered for the next day or so. I have now purchased a pair of proper walking boots, ones suitable for the next few adventures and for summer expeditions to Wales and the moors. They make a big difference and are not ugly. I'm a bit fussy about my footwear!

Last week was one spent well in Belgium and France. Exploring transport and accommodation options for three of us rather than just me was interesting. Flying was expensive, the Eurostar was too. The Eurostar won out for sheer convenience and off we set first thing on the train to St Pancras, with the news Heathrow had computer problems and flights had been cancelled, phew good  choice to train. The trip was lovely, across English and French countryside, under the channel to Lille. 

Car hire at Lille was not the best. I had the wrong license and had to talk my way out of a young driver penalty as I'd not had my Aussie one long enough. Rookie mistake! Driving on the left for the first time in a while was fun, more fun for me than my passengers I suspect. Fancy giving me a car with gears as well, what were they thinking! AirBnB came to the party with the loveliest base in Ipre, Apartment Aurora. An apartment with the best outside area for late afternoon relaxation in the sun. Very much needed after days exploring, driving and being driven. There was also free parking close by. 

So we were set for a week of battlefield and history tours, laying wreaths at the Menin Gate and heading off for some light entertainment in Bruges. Claude is the best tour guide and he took us to the places we wanted to go plus a few other places as well. I'd been there before so some of it was revisiting with someone knowledgeable, other places were new to me and the stories were amazing. Personal. So many New Zealanders left behind, and so many Germans too. Langemark Cemetery was sobering. All the remains interred there not at rest, not welcomed for their part in the devastation of the countryside. Remains of husbands, fathers, sons, brothers, uncles, friends. A sad place, a very large place with remains sharing gravestones and interred in The Kameraden Grab (Comrades Grave) for the thousands of unidentified dead being brought into this cemetery. 

We were all quiet, reflective, at the end of the day. Wandering to the Menin Gate to experience the daily commemorations was appropriate. It was freezing, emotional and packed with people watching in silence and bowing their heads as the last post rang out over the town. Wandering back we came across a fenced off piece near some excavations. It seems they uncovered an old canal and human remains so work is stopped for now. Fascinating to see what lies not too far below the surface. 

Tuesday saw more exploration after a much needed sleep in. The Memorial Museum Passchendaele at Zonnebeke didn't disappoint. I had visited in 2013 and remembered the small girl with us was quite afraid walking through the closed in trenches. There are many soldiers and nationalities represented in this lovely old mansion with stories told of the tough war time. 

The next day we were warred out so my long planned return trip to Bruges was on the agenda. Part two follows. Here are some pics. 

In Flanders Fields

Langemark

The Cloth Hall Ypres

Paying respects