Gibraltar

It's another place from my long time bucket list after reading so many stories where it features. Sometimes as a sanctuary, most times as a place of mystery and action. I'm not sure what I expected really. A place with a rich history and I wasn't disappointed. A place with fresh seafood. I may well have been very disappointed by what was on offer so close to the sea. It was probably down to the places we went rather than a lack of fresh fish! 

As a British overseas territory, Gibraltar is very British with many reminders of the old country in the small bars, retail shops and signs. There was a mix of people, many Spanish and other European, either living in Gib or just across the border in La Linea de la Concepcion. It's cheaper to live there according to some folks we spoke with. The border crossing is not as easy as it was pre Brexit with posts to check us in and out with a stamp. Yes, a passport stamp! My passport is beginning to look like it used to. 

The flight in had my face pressed to the window looking out over Africa and Spain while approaching a runway with a road running through the middle. The traffic does get stopped thankfully! The photo below shows the rock on our approach. Once again BA came to the party with great service and flight crew. The airport was small too making the immigration process quick and easy. 

The Rock Hotel was a treat with a lovely big room and an amazing view over the harbor from the balcony. The people were lovely too, and the food and wine. The pool was closed of course, and the weather was certainly not inviting this hot house flower to take a dip. The main highlight was exploring the rather large rock towering above the hotel. The cable car was the best way up and the paths were designed for wandering with amazing views over the Straits to Africa and Spain, especially over the seaward side sheer drop. 

The first day was a trip up the hill by cable car, steep and directly to the top. Description defies me, the view from the top was outstanding - see the picture below. We wandered over to the other side, about 10 paces away, and had to do a sudden stop as the drop was sheer and there was no barrier. Got the heart going, luckily I'm not afraid of heights. The sky bridge over the cliff side a little further on tested my head for heights too.

We chose to wander rather than get a taxi or do a tour. A good idea when we saw the crowds disembarking from the mini vans and not really getting time to just be in the place. The van crowd did  supply some monkey business as the Barbary apes mobbed the vans and people looking for food. They ignored us so I was able to get close enough for some good shots. The plaques also had the key points and history of the places we wandered. 

The map and guide showed a place called St Michaels Cavern and Cabin, the later with souvenirs, beers and food. Folks who travel with me know I'm a bit fascinated with Archangel Michael and tend to visit where ever he's mentioned. I didn't hold great hopes for this attraction but I was footsore and in need of a loo and food break. Cold beers all round then a descent into the cave system. 

Wow! It was an amazing spot and showed the geological make up of this place with a vast cavern system complete with stalagmites and stalactites and hidden spots with a variety of minerals. We sat quietly in the semi dark enjoying the ambiance then the light show started illuminating different formations and showing why it's called St Michaels Cavern. It was amazing and a highlight of the hill wander. Hoping this is not a spoiler, a pic of this is below. A stalactite broke and fell in recent times and the cross section showed its history and mineral make up. We ended up spending a lot of time in the cavern, enjoying the space and peace.

Although the Rock is quite small, we managed a lot of walking on the first day. It's certainly not a one day wander and we returned on our last day to explore the castle and the caves and tunnels used in WW2 at the other end of the park.  Thankfully I packed my trainers this time as the tracks were challenging in places, especially as we headed down to towards town, both hurting and in need of food and a sit down. 

The view from the top of the cable car

Time for a groom 

Cavern light show

Stalactite cross section

Flying in - Exciting!

2022

As 2022 draws to a close there's lots to reflect on. What a year of change and upheaval; of letting go; of travel and adventures; of connection and freedom. I'm sitting here knowing it's already 2023 in New Zealand and Australia and enjoying a wet inside day to relax, listen to music and catch up here. I'm pleased 2022 is almost gone and 2023 awaits. I'm feeling more hopeful and positive than I have for years. A word for 2023 hasn't arrived yet, although Light is peeking through as a possibility. Light, lightness of space and place and connection. 

 

Winter is coming.....

Yes, it's becoming quite chilly here with some foggy cold evenings bringing eerie light and sparkling spider webs. Not spiders like I know spiders, small friendly ones not giant Huntsman or scary red backs. There's also no cockroaches. My friends laugh at my 'put food things away to keep the cockies at bay' antics. There are several bright spots with the chill. The first is a lovely warm, well insulated and heated apartment; the second I get to buy some winter woolies and boots and wear them; the third, well warm is only a short flight away.

Well, that's what I thought when I booked Friday's trip to Gibraltar and Spain. Another BA holiday too good to refuse. I chose the hotel because it had a lovely resort pool with deck chairs and I pictured myself with a book and a cocktail by the pool in my new bikinis. Did I mention I have no swim wear? Mine went in the bin when I realised it was well past its best as I packed. So here I am searching out cooler clothes to pack with my travel companion and friends having a laugh at my expense. There's been a bit of that all round really.

It seems the lovely pool has been closed for some time because it's cold in Gibraltar at this time of year! So while there will be no sunning in bikinis and books by the pool, there will be cocktails. Lots of cocktails and sampling gins and the like because apparently it's cheaper there than here. Anyway, I'm off to the Rock where I can wander to Spain for tapas and vino - So excited! You see I've never been to Spain. I've been to Portugal and to the border with France a long while ago and never ventured in. I love Spanish food and wine and am looking forward to people watching in a cantina while slow eating. 

It also seems there is a ferry to Morocco and there's a Spanish part to Morocco where it arrives. If time allows a ferry cruise might be another piece to this adventure. I've always wanted to visit Gibraltar after reading books where it features. I got close in 2013 with a day skipper course but other spots took my attention. The history is quite amazing and I'm looking forward to exploring, not quite sans a coat but at least a little warmer than here. 

Berlin II

One thing I didn't mention in the last post was how far we wandered - far too far for my new green boots and my little white shoes. I didn't learn from London and take my runners. Vanity is a fine thing, 10 plus kilometers each day will outweigh vanity next time. I have recovered, although apparently there were times my inner toddler came out, stamping my foot and demanding to stop, sit and have food and a beer or the flat 'no - it's not in that direction'. I was often wrong, blunt maps aye. See we'd turned off roaming on our phones so did it all without Google maps. I should know by now how hotel maps are not quite up to the task. Being misplaced did end up in more adventures of course. 

The day after the walking tour, after a relaxing evening and a lovely meal at the local Spanish tapas place, we set off to revisit some of the best walking tour sites. A time to stay a bit longer and reflect on Campbell's commentary. Zig zagging along the wall route, the river and through the parks and stopping longer for photos. Brandenburg Gate, a big highlight, was so packed with people it was not quite the best time for photos.   

Built between 1788 and 1791 by Prussian King Frederick William II, Brandenburg Gate was a key entry point into the city. It was also a symbol of the east west divide and reunification. It's an imposing structure. The sight of thousands of brown shirted stormtroopers and SS men marching through in a torchlight parade, cheered on by their notorious leaders, must have been terrifying. The history was laid out in photos at the Topography of Terror Museum. And the many marches and shows of strength were truly terrifying. The warm sun coxed us to a café for a spot of coffee, cake and people watching.

With the promise of a lighter walking day, we hit the underground and headed to Tempelhof.  The Airport Tempelhof was built between 1936 and 1941and was the biggest monument of the Nazi era. It become a symbol of freedom because of the airlift of 1948/49 where allied planes flew in supplies to beleaguered Berliners. The airport is made up of an elliptical airfield and an enormous building complex. The airfield was used to test early flying machines too, including early gas balloons. The site has a rich and varied early history, beginning with occupation by the Templar Order in the 13th century. Airport Tempelhof is unique. There was no other building of this magnitude, at least within Europe, in the 1930s and it became a thriving airport postwar.

The building is imposing, and now it's deserted with the airfield used by the community for weekend outings and exercise. It's huge and took some wandering, so much for a lighter walking day. Sitting on the runway with a cold beer watching families enjoying the warm day was a treat. There was a melting pot of families, people of Middle Eastern heritage grilling food and having big family picnics; English, German, French, Arabic, Turkish languages in use; people greeting each other; friends meeting up to go for a ride; people on bikes and skates zooming past; kids flying kites; derelict planes and artifacts from earlier days; all with a distant concert providing the backing track. The area is huge and thriving. All  this was watched on by a group of people in cabins, behind a high fence. Children playing together while a Ukrainian flag fluttered listlessly. Quite a contrast, and a topic of conversation for a group I could understand. 

The wander back had toddler behaviour, turned out I was right to go left not right. All settled with a cold beer and cider at Murphy's once we found it. The wander back to the hotel was very slow and a bit of a bar crawl, the very best way to see sights and people watch as the evening closes in. I was sad to leave Berlin and hope to return soon. The next adventure is in the planning stage, as always!

Jewish Memorial

Visiting the Deutsche Parliament - no one home!

Trains to life

Trains to death

The vapor trail seemed appropriate as we headed to the airport

A long weekend in Berlin

Yes, Berlin! A place on my bucket list for a very long time. A place I've been fascinated by - the history, the people, the impact of war and tyranny, the stories of real people faced with adversity, the beer. Of course the beer and the curry wurst! 

Being based in the UK makes travel to Europe so easy. Good old BA came to the party this time with a package deal I couldn't refuse - flights and hotels for a very reasonable price, leaving and returning at a time that worked and a hotel located for wanders around the main sights. Add to that a good hotel and parking deal at Heathrow and we were off. I'd stayed at the hotel once before on my way to the Caymans more than 10 years ago. It hadn't changed and still had the lovely Spanish wines I appreciated so much then. 

Berlin. I was surprised how low key Berlin was. Sitting by the canal enjoying a wine and pizza I could see the community. People returning from work walking or on bikes, some with small children in carriers or carts at the front. Like an old fashioned bread delivery bike. People who greeted each other, friends enjoying the late afternoon sun at the canal side café, older people, a group of teen laughing and enjoying their pizza, families with children running up and down the path. My German is non existent, my companion can make himself understood, well enough for the wait staff to get an English speaker! 

It was also warm enough for a light jumper, and the lovely autumn weather continued for the whole weekend. Autumn, it's been a while since I experienced a true autumn and I've been enjoying the changing colours here for a few weeks. Berlin was a whole other level; fiery trees with leaves floating on the wind to the carpet of colour covering the grass. I took photos, none of which really did autumn justice. Anyhow, we were there for a whole other purpose. 

We booked a walking tour with Insider Tours to understand more about the Third Reich and the history of this place. Campbell, from Melbourne, was the best guide. With history and politics degrees, he was extremely knowledgeable and a natural storyteller. The group was small so we got to ask questions along the way as we visited key sites ending at the Topography of Terror history museum. The loo was very much needed by then, three hours of wandering with a short stop for coffee and cake. I highly recommend Insider Tours. The first day wandering Berlin we went past many of the sights, most not signposted. Checkpoint Charlie was, and Murphy's Irish Bar nearby was a much needed stopping point.

More about the museum, and the excavated area with the information boards. The history was horrifying. A story of what people can do to other people while other people watch on. Watching and not stepping in for fear of their own lives or because they agree with the dogma. This is still happening in our world today. There was much I didn't know, even though I'm well read and enjoy history. Like  the kinder transports - Jewish children sent to England to be cared for. Children only, because English politicians didn't want the 'Jewish problem' to come there. So deeply had the propaganda impacted, allowing for the atrocities. The children who went mostly survived, the children who stayed mostly didn't. A life lottery. My heart wept for the mums and dads who had to make this awful decision. 

There is an air of hopeful renewal in Berlin, of dark histories not to be revisited by this and next generations. There are a lot of empty buildings with dark histories like the Ministry of Defence  building, and hidden ones like the location of the notorious bunker. What surprised me was the extent and damage of the wall between east and west. We followed this and each day wandered both sides of this beautiful city, east and west lines drawn by men, an outcome of devastating war, affecting so many people. I'm not sure how I would have coped with being locked up like that, people risking their lives to be free. 

I took lots of phone pics and took my big camera on some of the wanders. I've not yet downloaded these so it's phone pics again. 

Canal side dining

Joys of autumn

Soviet War Memorial

Topography of Terror - Outside display

Reichstag building

London - Day two

 It was a slow start - Spanish wine meant a lie in. Plus we had to carry things. Luckily I travel light, except for my camera. Being a bit footsore after walking over 25,000 steps, a quieter day was planned. This time it was Buckingham Palace and surrounds. What a beautiful spot St James Park is. A haven after the crowds out in the street,  the push to watch what was happening after the police moved us on and closed The Mall. With all the happenings lately, that was hardly surprising. 

We watched and waited - watching people on bikes stopping for traffic lights when there was no traffic was amusing - then wandered on. Turns out there was a happening happening. There were Gurkas on parade, and guardsmen and a band. Well worth the stop. After a wander through the park, there was shopping to be done. More window than anything, I really do need some winter clothes! I did find the T2 shop, much to my companion's bewilderment at my excitement. The lass behind the counter also had a giggle. I'm now the proud owner of a large bag of French Earl Grey to grace my new teapot. 

A wander through Chinatown, then it was lunch and home again via the tube. A great weekend away, one of many. The next trip was one to Northumberland and we're off to Berlin at the end of this month. It's so easy to plan trips here, a quick flight and hotel deal from BA for Berlin meant a call to the very helpful BA team. The photos are phone ones, I've not explored the ones on my camera yet. 

Fun with filters!

And it's not a day out without a beer at Mr Foggs!
 

The flags are out

St James Lake

London - Day one

The long awaited trip to London happened a couple of weeks ago. Travelling on the tube from the outskirts after parking the car. We left a bit later than planned as I had a small mishap - I misplaced my phone! Panicking just a little as I'm quite careful with my precious phone, we retraced the many steps from the station to the car to find it. I left it in the car thankfully, not along the way as I'd feared, so it was back to the station and a later tube.   

It was input input from the beginning. An interesting trip people watching as the carriage filled up along the way. Finding the hotel was also interesting, exhausting. It was much later than expected and phones don't like high buildings so we had to do it the old fashioned way via the street maps. An exercise in orienteering dark streets. It was wonderful to sit down after quite a walk - had I known the walking itinerary for the next day I just may have packed my new trainers! 

What a gorgeous day it was, cool sunshine and surprises. Where to start. Anyone who's ever travelled with me knows about the hangry me so it was a big breakfast at the local Wetherspoons; cheap, cheerful and plentiful with an okay coffee. There was also the odd snack in my bag, just in case. My guide knows London very well so regaled me with the histories of the places we visited, histories from the distant and recent pasts. 

First stop was a place I'd never been - St Katharine Docks Marina, the home of one of the Queen's boats and the Dickens Inn. The famous flowers were on their last legs as autumn approaches, although still a wonderful display. Eleven centuries of history are a bit much to cover here so the website is above. It was the perfect place to take someone like me who loves boats although walking past the Tower first was a topic for conversation - my 4 year old 'why?' came out until we arrived in the sunlit marina. 

The first thing I noticed was how peaceful the area was, quite a change from the roads and city noises on the walk there. The benches in the sun were really tempting, the moving on had to happen although I got a call in from the red phone box and some boat envy while enjoying the feel and history of the place. 

One thing I love to do is offer to take photos of people, especially when there's two or more trying to get in. Folks do tend to hand this middle aged grandma their cameras and phones - I must look trustworthy! The two lovely ladies appreciated the help and offered to return the favour so I gratefully accepted. I enjoy the small chats I have with people. Some notice I have a different accent and do the guessing thing, some seem to want to talk to someone other than their travelling companion, others find a point of connection, some see their kids smiling and smile back (middle aged grandmas have grandma written in their smile and kids know this). Some look at me like I'm a bit odd - well maybe! 

There's a such a difference wandering looking and wandering with someone who knows the place, the history and has personal stories. My travel companion has stories aplenty with a keen interest in history and knowledge of the city. Also knowledge of places I can't go on my own, like the Union Jack Club. I was very ready for a stop, a loo and a cold cider. As a bonus I got chatting with the folks seated at the next table and met Dr Cath Arnold, a renowned author and researcher in my field. What a treat to discuss her work, having read her books and shared her knowledge with others. She was on her way to a conference dinner with others in our field, names I could nod to. We've got each others contact details so will keep in touch. 

Wandering along the South Bank is always great for people watching, and people were out in force on this sunny Saturday. One thing I've really noticed is just how many people there are here, how crowded places are. Take the Borough Market. Last time I visited, admittedly in winter, I could pause and browse. Not so on this visit. People pushing and queueing and wandering eating and drinking didn't make for a pleasant time so it was a quick stop. 

I always thought the Globe Theatre was really the original - not so it seems. There is a spot quite near where the original stood and it was great to read the plaques and learn more. Wandering past the Eye and over to the other side we arrived at Covent Garden to enjoy some street performances and a quiet lunch in a church garden. Then it was tube time and a trip to the closest station to the hotel, evidently not the one we got off at the evening before. I was completely exhausted so found a dinner place close by, the very best Spanish tapas and paella with a Spanish red at Barcelona Tapas and Bar. The service was excellent too. A treat for us after a long day. 

St Katharine's Marina

The Dickens famous flowers

ET phone home

Tower Bridge 

The Tower from South Bank