Monday, 30 November 2009

Pokhara

Nepal is full of surprises. The first surprise is that my cell phone won't work here. A very small surprise but thought I'd mention it just in case anyone was trying to get hold of me. A much bigger surprise, a delightful surprise was getting a second mountain flight today on the way to Pokhara. Kathmandu domestic terminal is a bit of a treat, a hub of noise, people coming and going and callers calling for the next flight.

Mine was delayed so more time to people watch and to get to know others, this time a very friendly family from Dubai but originally from Kerela. Yep, after the conversation I really must visit there. We sat on the bus in the warm sun while the congested airspace cleared then up we went alongside the high range, past Mt Everest. I got a couple more photos of the majestic peak rising above the clouds, very special to see up close.

Pokhara is a lovely place, very peaceful. Even more peaceful because my travel companions have gone home and I'm on my own. Solo traveling is not something I've done very often, my jury's out as to how much I enjoy it, especially after having such fun with my friends in Kathmandu. I walked along the lakeside and had chia (tea) with some young American girls, one of whom had traveled overland from China through Tibet. She had some stories to tell, made me want to travel that path.

Clair and I went for a wander yesterday starting after a dramatic drive up a very bumpy road through some spectacular scenery. The Toyota bumped it's way over roads more suited to a 4wd and dropped us at a monastery high in the hills above the Kathmandu Valley. The view was outstanding, the inside of the monastery stunning. It's a new monastery, the painting inside was still being completed. 23 men including a couple of monks were busy at work painting the intricate patterns, the traditional stories of the place. Clair and I took heaps of photos but were not allowed to inside.

The walk down the valley was restful. Through the rice paddy's and small villages where the families were doing what families do later in the afternoon of a working day. I will add to this story when I can upload the photos, photos of the place, the people and my travel companions. An excellent day out topped off by some Nepali chia in a local cafe. Clair and I dined in style at the Thai restaurant just down the road from out hotel, sharing a treat to warm us up, a hot toddy of spiced rum. Delicious and warming. A perfect end to a perfect day.

We were sad to leave our friends at the Ambassador Garden Home Thamel's Finest Boutique Hotel. It certainly was the finest, made fine by the people. Anything we wanted, they provided including flights, trekking guides, hot water bottles at night and the yummiest breakfast. I took a photo of the crew and will include this and more information in a post soon. Needless to say, if you're looking for a haven of peace and tranquility in down town Kathmandu give them a call.

Sunday, 29 November 2009

Nepal

It's taken me a while to get to the Internet point alongside our hotel, I've been too busy out and about, there's so much to see here. One of the good things about going with a group, there are seven of us on this trip, is that things are easy to organise and cheaper when split. We have done some serious sightseeing including flying past Everest in a small plane; driving over some exciting roads to get to Bhaktapur via another amazing temple higher in the foothills of the Kathmandu Valley; walking around the Bouda Temple, clockwise of course; shopping, haggling for goods in the narrow streets of Kathmandu; riding in a rickshaw up to the base of the Swaymbhunath Stupa or the Monkey Temple; climbing the 365 steps to the top and enjoying an amazing view of the city and beyond.

Of course I have photos, I'll be able to add some when I'm home on Thursday after sleeping for a while. Today I'm off trekking, just Clair and I left so we decided on a day out including a three plus hour climb to a monastry high in the foothills. Tomorrow we both go to the airport, Clair to fly home and I'm flying to Pokara, the trekking mecca according to all I read. It will be good to get out of the city again and closer to the mountians. I'm hoping to meet some other friends there but if not, join a couple of day treks. Got to get the most out of my new walking shoes.

I'm so enjoy this adventure, the people are amazing. Very friendly and accommodating. I do see the tourist footprint stamped heavily within the city and lighter out in the countryside, that's progress I suppose. TTFN from chilly Kathmandu.

Wednesday, 25 November 2009

Eid and National Day

I'm off, got 10 days holiday with only one leave day used, a much needed break after some stressful weeks. Eid Al Hada begins tomorrow, a time of celebration here. The parks have been decked out as have the palms and roundabouts. There are festivities in the air, festivities and celebration at school.

I got to join in on Tuesday, so many photo opportunities but as I am new to the school I didn't bring my camera. I also wouldn't post any of the photos. Children in national dress, children in fancy gowns, faces painted and henna applied, boys with wooden guns and walking sticks twirling and throwing just as they have seen their fathers, grandfathers, uncles, cousins and older siblings do. Excellent photos but ones needing permissions I don't have.

There have been many things that have impressed me this week; the national fervor and excitement about these celebrations, especially with the children; the conversations with the children, teachers and sometimes parents about the celebrations; the inclusion of us westerners in the celebrations; the relaxed and easy times; the environment being prepared. I can only liken it to the week before Christmas in NZ.

I was watching some girls having henna applied, telling their teachers that they wanted full arms done not just their hands. Mashallah, remark the teachers as they share this with others, laughing. Good natured, smiling banter respecting and enjoying the children. I was delighted when the teacher asked if I wanted henna. Oh, yes please I smiled. The others laughed and told me to go to the other teacher as she was better, more laughter as they called out to her and I joined her queue.

I sat quietly as the henna was quickly applied in a very cool pattern up my arm, down onto my hand and fingers. The henna dries into a crust after an hour or so and starts to flake off, I was keen to see the result so helped it a little. Since yesterday the colour has darkened and the pattern looks amazing. I got comments when I arrived at school this morning, got comments from Emirati ladies as I brought a smaller suitcase to travel with at Megamart. All smiles and mashallahs.

So now I'm sitting resting before packing. I have new Merrills, new jeans, a new case to put them in. I'm so excited as are my travel companions. It's an early start tomorrow, leaving home about 3.30am to get to Sharjah in time to fly, then onto Kathmandu for a few days, then up to Pokera to the mountains to go trekking. I can't wait. Mmmm small hitch, how exactly do I get to Sharjah Airport? Might have to make a few calls to check, tried a couple of people so far to no avail. I will make it, inshallah.

Watch this space for photos and stories when I return, it will be quiet for a week or so.

Saturday, 21 November 2009

Just one more, OK

Some of the promised photos



I had a small melt down this morning when thought I'd lost most of my photos after trying a late download then canceling so I could get some sleep. Lucky Macs are much, much smarter than me and all I had to do was be patient, not my natural state when it comes to technology. The second half of the day are loading now, might have to add some more later but for now here's two. I had fun with the sails, there's a photo of me lying on the seat getting an up shot. That's in the next batch.

Friday, 20 November 2009

A fun day out

It may be getting chilly but that makes it all the better for getting out and about. We could sit on the top deck of the catamaran as we cruised just off Dubai and the sea water was refreshingly cool. Three friends were celebrating a significant birthday so we thought we'd help them out. What an excellent choice of activity for the day, a cruise around the world, swimming off the white sandy islands, banana boating, a BBQ, drinks, excellent company and New Zealand music.

We set out from Al Ain in the morning, I drove, negotiating Dubai's every changing roads to get to the Marina almost on time. Rau and I were pleasantly surprise to see our plush ride, a lovely big catamaran awaiting us, the first of many good surprises for the day. Dubai from the sea is lovely, much better than from a car trying to negotiate the way in, or as we later found, the way out. Yep, misplaced again. Although being lost is only when you don't really know where you are or how to correct the situation. We at least knew we had gone from heading to Sharjar to heading towards Oman.

I'll write more tomorrow, add more photos, but for now I'm pleasantly tired so heading off to bed and hopefully a sleep in in the morning. Thanks Belinda, Jenny and Rianne for a lovely day out, what you up to next birthday?

PS Note to self, don't start downloading 188 photos shot on raw after midnight....... Sorry will add photos tomorrow.

Wednesday, 18 November 2009

Almost winter



It's getting colder, the kids are wearing coats and hats to school, the cold water in the tap is cold, there's a cool breeze in the evening, the shops are full of winter clothes, we can now walk outside later in the day. It's lovely out, Al Jahili Park is full of picnics, laughter and friendships with the kids playing together while the adults lay about watching, chatting, enjoying each others company.

Eid and National Day are fast approaching and it looks like Christmas here, the decorations are up all green and red reflecting the colours of the flag. The houses have fairy lights, the neighborhoods competing for the most lit up house. The children are having special celebrations at school, celebrating their strong culture and heritage.

I was reflecting on this with others yesterday. In my country we have lost this sort of celebration of who we are. Our national day on 6 February is one of conflict as it is marking one culture's colonisation of another, perhaps of good intentions by most of a treaty between peoples that mean equal partnership. Not a real celebration for everyone while grievances are still being redressed. There have been suggestions that we change the day, not one that has been taken up by the powers that be.

The others came from the UK and Canada, such is the mix here. The UK are like us, no real whole country celebration and a sensitivity to what might be perceived as culturally insensitive. Canada has a day of celebrating all cultures, a non denominational day of celebration. I was wondering where their indigenous culture fitted into that.

More reflection is needed to find some sort of solution, if there is one to be had. ANZAC day is big in NZ with many people taking the time to celebrate our war fallen, many take the trip to Galipoli to remember our fallen, many visit the war grave yards in Belgium and France. I know I have and felt the fingers of time reach towards me, telling the story of a time of loss and strength, of young men going on an adventure never to return to Aotearoa, regardless of culture.

We got the news yesterday that we have a longer holiday so the trip I've booked to another place where New Zealander's contributions have been appreciated can be extended. I can't wait to get to Kathmandu, to see Mt Everest and meet the people who took our Sir Ed into their hearts. I might even get to go trekking, will need to visit the shops to get some warmer clothes and those tramping boots.

The photos are from my Belgium trip, the sculpture park in Antwepen.