Portugal II

I met Terrie in the Cayman Islands through the sail club and thought it was about time to catch up again. The toll roads in Portugal are a bit of a treat. Low traffic and not too many booths. Going the green lane meant driving straight through so it was a quick journey up into the hills to Terrie's place, a lovely little taberna in Miranda do Corvo - Tabuas. We picked up where we left off and caught up with all the life gossip in between. A nice, relaxing interlude, especially enjoyed by Mr 14 because there were plenty of animals to play with and willing pool players to challenge. 

On we went to Coimbra, exploring the Universidade de Coimbra one of the oldest universities in the world founded in 1290. A very beautiful spot where JK Rowling got the idea for the gowns in Harry Potter. According to a local friend the students still wear these gowns. Porto was calling so on we went, driving through the one way system to pick up the keys to our next Airbnb. I parked the car with the help of a local man, he found me the park, I paid him, located the parking building nearby and found a supermarket. One with lots of seafood and fresh salad things. Dinner was prawn cocktail and salmon with a side of octopus. Not bad with lovely local wine. 

Porto, we weren't there long before we realised this was a much nicer place than Lisbon! Day one was a cruise on the River Douro to see the bridges and get the lay of the land. It was well worth it. We debated about a wine cruise but with three of us that was pricey and took out a whole day. We settled for a ferry to Gaia and a wander up to the Taylor's Port place. The tour and port tasting were an outstanding experience. I didn't know much about the history of port, only that I liked it, and I wondered how my dad would have loved this experience. He was my early port drinking buddy. 

I'd never tasted white port, it's great on it's own and in the negroni we enjoyed with the breads, olives and cheeses. What a lovely spot to while away an afternoon under the grape vines. We rode on the gondola to save our legs on the climb up to the bridge. The next day we did a walking tour, another must do in Porto. William the guide took us around some special places we would not have found on our own and provided both knowledgeable commentary and restaurant recommendations, highlighting the best local cuisine. 

We were sad to leave Porto. We kept the car an extra day so we could take our time on the drive down to Lisbon via Sintra. We nearly missed Sintra out and I'm so pleased we didn't. While I wasn't so interested in a palace, I was interested in seeing places with older history, Moors, Romans and other older inhabitants. The Moorish Castle was a climb up and the steps around the walls were a bit challenging in place but the view was outstanding. Walking on pathways and up stone steps where people have walked for so many years, I felt the weight of time in the artefacts and evidence of settlements. Peaceful despite the number of people wandering. 

As I mentioned it was a long walk day, up through the nicest parklands to the castle, around the castle, then down towards the car. Down the wrong way. Down the long way needing to go back up to get to the right place! Note to self, take control of navigating at all times even under pressure from the males present! I was a bit grumpy by the time we reached the car and headed off towards Lisbon. Staying near the airport was wise,  easy to drop the car off in the morning and get a ride to the airport. 

I was sad to be leaving Portugal, a place I'll go back to again. Nazare to see the waves and Porto to spend more time there. 

Porto from the river

Eiffel's Bridge

Roll out the barrels - Taylor's Port

And the important tasting!

Barrel boats on the river

Up at the castle

Towards Pena Palace

Burial place of remain uncovered during construction

Portugal

School holidays and summer, must be time for a trip somewhere? South of France was top of the list, and too hard to get because of the Olympics and trains and planes not quite going where we needed. Portugal it is then, such a hard decision! I loved my 2013 trip to Lisbon so it was a no brainer to go and explore more of this beautiful country. Airbnb came up trumps with some great accommodation and the BA flights were quite cheap. I also have a lovely friend from the Caymans living there so we got to catch up at her lovely taverna in the hills. 

Lisbon didn't disappoint, it was hot and busy and lovely to revisit and show my two travel buddies around. The hills were just as steep, the trams too packed to ride on so we wandered places with stops for the lovely pastries, custard tarts, coffee and wine on the way. We explored the tourist areas, riding on the funicular and visiting the castle and other spots. A swim was needed after a couple of hot days so off we went to Cascais on the train. 

The sea was freezing, very refreshing, and on the way back we visited Belem Tower. Wandering in the tower and up stairs to the top. There was a long queue outside and luckily I'd got some tickets on the Get your Guide app as walk up tickets for the day were sold out. Visiting late in the day meant watching the sky change colour, just beautiful. 

We picked up a car from near the airport so we could travel north, visiting special places and spending time in Porto. Drive on Holidays is the best company with friendly helpful staff and the great cars, and so much cheaper than the mainstream car hire companies. Best of all it was in an industrial park near the airport not at the airport meaning I didn't have to negotiate airport traffic on my first drive on the left for a while! There were a few false starts then we were off to Nazare via Peniche. 

Nazare, a place I've always wanted to experience, and photograph the big big waves. Alas that's a winter pastime so  we just got to stand up by that famous lighthouse and wonder at how the waves could reach so high,  astounding really! I had the biggest smile the whole time I was there, enjoyed riding the funicular from the beach to the town above and the wander down to the fort and lighthouse. Next visit will be in winter. The apartment we stayed at had a washing machine and best of all an outside line on pulleys to use, very much a novelty. The paddle in the sea was very refreshing, watching the cool sea mist roll in over the town and the people departing the beach. 

While I love Portugal, I do love a sea swim and the water is just too cold for me. The Atlantic coasts are amazing, the seafood fresh and delicious, the people friendly and helpful, the climate benign. All things that might attract me to live there, except for the cold sea. 

Speaking of helpful people, the place I parked the car, or rather large SUV, was a bit of a challenge to get into and out of. Down a narrow alley, between two low poles, and left into an angled and sloping park. No place to turn so backing out was the only way. Mr 14 stood by one pole, Jules the other as I backed up the steep hill. Then the cavalry arrived, two lovely local men who guided, yelled, gesticulated, scratched their heads and conferred. All in Portuguese! Between them and my other two helpful males, and with much waving of arms, I made the 27 point turn needed to get out to the alley. I think the locals may have been impressed, especially that I thanked them in their own language. Suffice to say after that I was confident to drive anywhere! 

Next stop was Terrie's place, off the motorway and up into the hills. Thank goodness for Google maps. More about that next post. 

Funicular fun!

Inside the Belem Tower

Belem Tower

Deserted beach

Cold sea

As the mist rolls in

To the lighthouse

A surfing mecca